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Power Shot 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: RMWright, Dr. ABS, Spring 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of Dumont
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 11, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Power Shot. PS shares an anchor with P1 of FOAL.

Description 

PS comes out of the cave 30 feet right of FOAL. Originally it seemed pretty hard, but in running it on RP, it seemed to land somewhere in the 5.11 domain. Sprint up on mostly big jugs in very steep terrain for 40 feet. I thought the crux was pulling past the fourth clip, which felt pretty commiting at this angle and catches you at the same time the flash pump hits. There is another crux pulling over the roof, but this is super well protected. This lower section reminded me of Rifle for the angle and the jugs. The slab after the roof comes in at 5.9 and has a couple neat moves that keep you thinking. It is possible to climb FOAL and place the draws on PS on the way down.

For the sake of running the rope past the roof and up the slab, it seemed like a good idea to have the belayer unclip the first bolt. PS starts with a traverse that could set up rope drag once on the slab above.


Location 

It starts in the overhanging cave 30 feet right of FOAL.


Protection 

Eleven QDs and a 60 meter rope. The double bolt anchor is shared with P1 of FOAL.



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