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Routes in Lightning Rock
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Ground Fall Interceptor (GFI) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Off The Grid T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Power Shortage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Short Circuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Chris Banks, Howard Burkhart, and Lonnie Pilkington |
| Page Views: | 685 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | spanky on Apr 30, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Power Shortage climbs the thin crack shooting up the narrow east face of Lightning Rock, just left of the gully between Lightning Rock and Bat Flake.
Start 15-20 feet right of the start of Short Circuit/Meltdown. Climb up to an A-shaped roof at the right edge of the low ceiling band and exit right onto the slab, quality 5.9. Face climb up and back left (loose, slightly runout) to a short, right-facing corner. After the corner, gain a thin crack which widens to hands in an obvious slot after 40 feet. After this hand slot, escape right onto a ledge in the gully between Lightning Rock and Bat Flake. The crux is near the top, getting into the hand jams. The rock quality on the first half of the finger crack is excellent, but the rock becomes a bit friable higher up. Still, this is definitely a worthwhile route if you're in the area.
Rap from slings on chockstones, 15-20 feet up and right from belay (slings are somewhat hidden). Two rappels, the second from slings on a horn below Bat Flake, might be advisable to prevent your ropes from hanging up in the gully.
Start 15-20 feet right of the start of Short Circuit/Meltdown. Climb up to an A-shaped roof at the right edge of the low ceiling band and exit right onto the slab, quality 5.9. Face climb up and back left (loose, slightly runout) to a short, right-facing corner. After the corner, gain a thin crack which widens to hands in an obvious slot after 40 feet. After this hand slot, escape right onto a ledge in the gully between Lightning Rock and Bat Flake. The crux is near the top, getting into the hand jams. The rock quality on the first half of the finger crack is excellent, but the rock becomes a bit friable higher up. Still, this is definitely a worthwhile route if you're in the area.
Rap from slings on chockstones, 15-20 feet up and right from belay (slings are somewhat hidden). Two rappels, the second from slings on a horn below Bat Flake, might be advisable to prevent your ropes from hanging up in the gully.
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