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Torture Machine Area
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Minimizer S 
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Tangerine Dream S 
Technicolor Tango S 
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Vertigo S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Power Play 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005, Extension: Chris Miller, 10/08
Page Views: 1,313
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Steve moving through the crux of Power Play

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A bouldery sequence of underclings and highsteps is the crux of this route and once the underclings at the 2nd bolt are reached it's about 5.9 to the anchors. Above the 2nd bolt the climb moves right then back left on positive flakes and edges and then continues higher to a chain anchor just right of the Ground Zero anchor.

Not as sustained as other routes here which could make it a good route for those breaking into the grade. There's an extension to this route called Double Whammy - 16 bolts to anchors.

Location 

Located 10' right of Ground Zero, a prominent right-facing corner system starting about 40 off the ground and about 15' left of Whammy.

Protection 

8 bolts, chain anchor


Photos of Power Play Slideshow Add Photo
Running up Power Play, Riverside Quarry.
Running up Power Play, Riverside Quarry.
Past the difficulties on Power Play (5.10b), River...
Past the difficulties on Power Play (5.10b), River...
John Daniels making the final moves on Power Play ...
John Daniels making the final moves on Power Play ...

Comments on Power Play Add Comment
Show which comments
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Mar 13, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It is a pity that the route didn't head straight up the wall. The meander left then back right spoils it.
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Mar 17, 2007

yes it is a pity, but if it went straight up there would be a plethora of glue and chipped holds :), or it would be way harder which isn't such a bad thing!
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 12, 2008

Good news - this route has been extended and now continues straight above the 5th bolt past three more bolts to an independent anchor just right of the Ground Zero anchor.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Nov 1, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

What's the name and grade of the extension of this route. I found the anchors with chains that Chris mentions, but then continued up another six or seven bolts, past a roof with a few jams in a crack on the left. If I were to guess, I'd say it was 15 bolts, 5.11b/c. It was a ton of fun, and quite a bit left of double whammy.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 2, 2009

Colin - sounds like you did the extension to Power Play then finished up Double Whammy (5.11a).
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Ah, I guess I must have thought that Maximizer was Double-Whammy then.
By Emmanuel Garcia
Jul 29, 2011

A great beginning sequence! I love the movement up to and away from the 2nd bolt. The climb mellows out considerably afterwards.

If you don't feel comfortable leading through the beginning then set up a top rope from Whammy and put in a directional at the top where you could break right to the anchor for Whammy.
By johnnydanger
From: California
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bottom was fun with a few 10c moves, after that its smooth sailing on 9/10a holds above. Good length. Great climb.
By Clif Clap
Aug 16, 2014

Crux moves to the second bolt are straight forward and fun while the climbing above is easy but still pretty cool. I found this route to be way more enjoyable than Whammy.

Whammy is reachy and can be awkward whereas the movement on Power Play is smooth and flows. This is the better route of the two to warm-up on, in my opinion.
By Justin22
From: Redlands, CA
Sep 25, 2014

There is a loose flake just under the fifth bolt, pretty major hold though I did not use it after feeling it jiggle.