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Power Of the Schwartz 
Princess Vespa 

Power Of the Schwartz 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jesse Zacher
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 23, 2012
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Description 

A few bolts protect the approach up towards the left-facing dihedral. The balancy moves through the bolts is the crux. Once you gain the crack in the corner, it is a straightforward jam on featured rock until the apex of the crack where a large ledge traverse left leads you to a cruxy move to the ledge with shared anchors for The Bleeps, Sweeps, and the Creeps. If you go far left of the large ledge and place gear, you can gain a seam just below the roof and traverse in, and over the ledge to the anchors.


Protection 

QDs, a single set from #0.3-#2, (2)#3's, nuts.


Location 

This is the bolt line 15 feet right of The Bleeps, Sweeps, and the Creeps below the obvious dihedral. A single 60 gets you to the broken ledge where you can downclimb.



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By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Apr 27, 2012

Lots of slings help with rope drag!