Power Milk & Bagels  5.10b

855 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Bob & Carrie Robertson Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Begin the intricate upper half of Power Milk & Bag...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is an outstanding route for the grade range, featuring excellent, sculpted pockets on a beautiful black panel. This gets shade much earlier than its neighbors to the left due to its slight NE aspect.

Make easy but awkward moves straight up to and past the first bolt, avoiding some annoying vegetation, then veer hard right to the second bolt. The climbing improves drastically at this point, with a series of interesting mini-cruxes & long reaches (split by active rests) snaking up the long & sustained wall.

Location 

Hike ~5-6 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate a buttress with three routes with red, bed-frame hangers. This is the rightmost of these three routes, climbing the black panel that is the left wall of a tiered-roof dihedral.

Protection 

8 bolts with red angle-iron hangers, 2 ring bolt anchor.

Photos of Power Milk & Bagels Slideshow

Add Photo

Power Milk & Bagels.

The left rope is on "Pacman Gomez", the right on P...