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 ADVANCED
The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

Power Milk & Bagels 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob & Carrie Robertson
Page Views: 1,042
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011

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Begin the intricate upper half of Power Milk & Bag...

Description 

This is an outstanding route for the grade range, featuring excellent, sculpted pockets on a beautiful black panel. This gets shade much earlier than its neighbors to the left due to its slight NE aspect.

Make easy but awkward moves straight up to and past the first bolt, avoiding some annoying vegetation, then veer hard right to the second bolt. The climbing improves drastically at this point, with a series of interesting mini-cruxes & long reaches (split by active rests) snaking up the long & sustained wall.


Location 

Hike ~5-6 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate a buttress with three routes with red, bed-frame hangers. This is the rightmost of these three routes, climbing the black panel that is the left wall of a tiered-roof dihedral.


Protection 

8 bolts with red angle-iron hangers, 2 ring bolt anchor.



Photos of Power Milk & Bagels Slideshow Add Photo
Power Milk & Bagels.
Power Milk & Bagels.
The left rope is on "Pacman Gomez", the right on Power Milk & Bagels.
The left rope is on "Pacman Gomez", the right on P...
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