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Power Lust 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Glotfelty, J. Arnold
Page Views: 3,512
Submitted By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Upper moves on Power Lust. 7/2012.

Photo: Dave S...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Nice face/blunt arete to the right of Corrugation Corner.

Tech your way up to the crux mantle a few bolts up, then enjoy fine dike hiking to the top.


Location 

Just right of Corrugation Corner, follow the line of bolts up a face. Lower off or finish on Corrugation Corner (gear required).


Protection 

Draws, open shuts at top.



Photos of Power Lust Slideshow Add Photo
Gregory Turner dike hiking up Powerlust 5.11
Gregory Turner dike hiking up Powerlust 5.11
Bucket Guy looks on as Gregory Turner eyeballs the crux of Power Lust 5.11
BETA PHOTO: Bucket Guy looks on as Gregory Turner eyeballs the...
Fun thin moves on Power Lust. 7/2012.  <br /> <br />Photo: Dave Stallard
Fun thin moves on Power Lust. 7/2012.

Photo: Dav...
gettin warmed up in line for corrugation
gettin warmed up in line for corrugation
Comments on Power Lust Add Comment
Show which comments
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007

A wild ride that should be added to everyone's cragging list on the Main Wall. The cruxes are well protected, but there are a few spacey runouts on 5.9 near the end of the climb. The crux is a full stand up mantle with no hands. It is very helpful to be over 6ft on this one.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is route is what Lovers Leap is all about; insane mantles and dikes galore.

The very distinguishable crux mid route involved mantling up on my fingertips, then a little hop from my fingertips to grab the jug rail inches above.

It should be noted that I am 6'4".

By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 9, 2010

sounds like I need to give this one a try, I'm 6'6"

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 7, 2010

At 5'9", I didn't find the crux to be the balancy .11a move at the 4th (?) bolt. The crux for me was higher, at the second to last bolt, where I had to dyno to get to the holds before the final mantle. This was the hardest individual move I did all day, and we were on Nirvana (.12a) later on in the day.

By Cimbing Ivy
Jul 27, 2012

Fantastic fun sport route on superb clean rock. No-hand mantling galore with lots of balancy high stepping. It is 11a if you're 6 feet or above (as for my partner), if you're under 5'8" like me, the cruxiest move on the climb is the dyno move with a heel-hook high stepping at shoulder height after the no-hand stand up mantle crux. That single dyno move for south of 6 feet climbers is at least 11 b/c to 12a height-dependent.

By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Tough for the short. The crux can be done static for shorter climbers, it just requires a bit more finesse.