Power Lust 5.11-
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| Type: | Sport, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Steve Glotfelty, J. Arnold |
| Submitted By: | 426 on Mar 6, 2007 |
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Gregory Turner dike hiking up Powerlust 5.11
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Nice face/blunt arete to the right of Corrugation Corner. Tech your way up to the crux mantle a few bolts up, then enjoy fine dike hiking to the top.
Location Just right of Corrugation Corner, follow the line of bolts up a face. Lower off or finish on Corrugation Corner (gear required).
Protection Draws, open shuts at top.
BETA PHOTO: Bucket Guy looks on as Gregory Turner eyeballs the...
| gettin warmed up in line for corrugation
| Fun thin moves on Power Lust. 7/2012. Photo: Dav...
| Upper moves on Power Lust. 7/2012. Photo: Dave S...
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By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Oct 6, 2007
| A wild ride that should be added to everyone's cragging list on the Main Wall. The cruxes are well protected, but there are a few spacey runouts on 5.9 near the end of the climb. The crux is a full stand up mantle with no hands. It is very helpful to be over 6ft on this one. |
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Apr 2, 2009 rating: 5.11a
| This is route is what Lovers Leap is all about; insane mantles and dikes galore. The very distinguishable crux mid route involved mantling up on my fingertips, then a little hop from my fingertips to grab the jug rail inches above. It should be noted that I am 6'4". |
By Keenan Waeschle From: Bozeman, MT Feb 9, 2010
| sounds like I need to give this one a try, I'm 6'6" |
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Nov 7, 2010
| At 5'9", I didn't find the crux to be the balancy .11a move at the 4th (?) bolt. The crux for me was higher, at the second to last bolt, where I had to dyno to get to the holds before the final mantle. This was the hardest individual move I did all day, and we were on Nirvana (.12a) later on in the day. |
By Cimbing Ivy From: Sierra northside Jul 27, 2012
| Fantastic fun sport route on superb clean rock. No-hand mantling galore with lots of balancy high stepping. It is 11a if you're 6 feet or above (as for my partner), if you're under 5'8" like me, the cruxiest move on the climb is the dyno move with a heel-hook high stepping at shoulder height after the no-hand stand up mantle crux. That single dyno move for south of 6 feet climbers is at least 11 b/c to 12a height-dependent. |
By BrianWS Jan 28, 2013 rating: 5.11-
| Tough for the short. The crux can be done static for shorter climbers, it just requires a bit more finesse. |
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