|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Steve Glotfelty, J. Arnold|
|Submitted By:||426 on Mar 6, 2007|
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|Comments on Power Lust||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007
|A wild ride that should be added to everyone's cragging list on the Main Wall. The cruxes are well protected, but there are a few spacey runouts on 5.9 near the end of the climb. The crux is a full stand up mantle with no hands. It is very helpful to be over 6ft on this one.|
From: San Francisco
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
This is route is what Lovers Leap is all about; insane mantles and dikes galore.
The very distinguishable crux mid route involved mantling up on my fingertips, then a little hop from my fingertips to grab the jug rail inches above.
It should be noted that I am 6'4".
By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 9, 2010
|sounds like I need to give this one a try, I'm 6'6"|
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 7, 2010
|At 5'9", I didn't find the crux to be the balancy .11a move at the 4th (?) bolt. The crux for me was higher, at the second to last bolt, where I had to dyno to get to the holds before the final mantle. This was the hardest individual move I did all day, and we were on Nirvana (.12a) later on in the day.|
By Cimbing Ivy
Jul 27, 2012
|Fantastic fun sport route on superb clean rock. No-hand mantling galore with lots of balancy high stepping. It is 11a if you're 6 feet or above (as for my partner), if you're under 5'8" like me, the cruxiest move on the climb is the dyno move with a heel-hook high stepping at shoulder height after the no-hand stand up mantle crux. That single dyno move for south of 6 feet climbers is at least 11 b/c to 12a height-dependent.|
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
|Tough for the short. The crux can be done static for shorter climbers, it just requires a bit more finesse.|