Climb 5.8 slab past four bolts to the right side of the dark colored roof. Power over the left side of the roof on good sharp holds past 2 more bolts to the anchor. This is not good to toprope due to the sharp edge of the roof, it is best to bring up the second.
You'll need 7 quickdraws and something for the two bolt anchor. Warning: as of 11-3-01 the two hangers below the roof and over the roof are loose!!!
Find this route at the far right side of the rock.
Mike Amato setting up to crank the roof.
Mike Amato over the roof and heading to the anchor...
|By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett|
Feb 6, 2002
Each time I've done this I (or at least my partners) have ended up struggling with rope drag problems while lowering/toproping. The only anchors are way off to the left and usually are in use. This could use its own two-bolt anchor. Maybe I'll remember to bring a drill and add these sometime; any objections to this?
|By Darin Lang|
Feb 6, 2002
Steve, I definitely agree with you that this climb could use its own anchor. The addition of a couple of bolts would be helpful to everyone who climbs here, and having reasonable toprope availability would certainly be in character with the rest of the Punk Rock area. Thanks much for the suggestion.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 7, 2002
Even w/ its own 2-bolt anchor toproping or lowering on this climb will be difficult because the crux is basically belly-flopping over the roof onto nearly level rock. It's hard to think of where best to put the anchors. However, I suppose it can't hurt to have a second anchor simply because the anchors above Shaking...are almost always being used for that climb. As Darin suggests it certainly wouldn't be out of character for this rock.
Most of this route is forgettable, but I thought the moves over the roof were extremely cool.
|By Nate Christiansen|
Jan 29, 2003
I have found that a good way to do this route is to bring a couple cordelettes and anchor them into Shaking.....anchor. Equalize that so I can reach the last bolt on Power House, and I clip myself into that as well. Top roping this route would just kill a rope. I know it is extremely wrong to modify a route, but this one could really use 2x bolts right on top of the overhang for those who want to top rope it.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 8, 2004
As of 6/18/04, the hanger in the roof is loose. A little nerveracking, but it held a fall regardless. All it needs is a good wrench to tighten up the bolt that holds the hanger on.