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Power Failure 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ray Jardine
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 10, 2007

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Description 

As a whole the route is a total pile but the crux (second) pitch is quite good and burly.

P1. Do a bouldery move up the left side of the mini amphitheater to some interesting moves around a hollow block to an ant-infested tree. (5.8+)

P2. The Business...Bearhug up a big inset flake to the base of the open bombay corner/roof. A sling around the flake plus big cams is your pro (If you only bring up to one #4 old-style Camalot (3-1/2" piece as the book recommends) like I did, its kinda scary but more like the F.A.)...Do some height-dependent stem/chimney/OW moves up the corner and pull a crazy stack/leg jam side-switch move over the roof (wild)...Once above the roof its 10- cruiser right side in OW or lieback/stem to another bulge. Continue past the crack which is narrowing and gets dirty and grassy. (11-, 120' 2-bolt anchor)

  • If you want to get a buzz-kill, keep going or better yet rap off and do better pitches somewhere else.

P3. If you're stubborn and want to finish... Wedge/crawl through another ant-infested big bush and run-it-out up a big dirty corner with many loose (some teetering) blocks, past one pin, to another ledge with a tree. (5.9- X)

P4. Actually an interesting slab/crack past a couple old pins and OK gear. Kinda scaly/dirty, though...Imagine that! (10 R)

Last pitch (or two)...Long upward and left traversing pitch all the way to lunch ledge area.

Descend the not-so-pleasant brush-wracked gully to the base, below your packs

Location 

Fairly far to the left of where the standard trail meets the cliff. Crux pitch is east facing.

Protection 

Standard rack of wired nuts and .5" cam to #4 Camalot plus 1 or 2 #5 and #6 Friends. 70M rope if rapping after crux pitch (highly recommended).


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By Osprey
From: ...
Mar 7, 2012

FA: Ray Jardine, Linda McGinnis, Mark Vallance, 10/1975