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The Dihedrals
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Powder in the Eyes 
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Take a Powder 
To Bolt Or Not To Be 
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Wedding Day 

Powder in the Eyes 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JB's sub-man (Jean Marc Troussier, 1986)
Page Views: 1,478
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007
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Description 

This notorious sandbag is perhaps the most neglected sport route in the Dihedrals (other contenders: Peepshow, Almost Nothing?). Given 5.12c in the Watts Guide, this line is a big step up in difficulty from Full Heinous or Last Waltz. Many a hard man has been spanked by the deceptive, continuous, funkery lurking innocently left of Take a Powder.

However, if you can get past the grade issue, this line offers a full (half) rope-length of stellar movement on Smith's top-shelf stone.

Begin with the first 3 bolts of Take a Powder. Veer left along the obvious undercling flake, and tackle the subtle arete feature. The first crux hits just above the 4th bolt, then a good clipping stance at the 5th, then the next crux, slapping the left hand up the arete with tricky feet and a difficult 2-finger pocket move. Above the climbing eases slightly, but remains quite technical.

This route can feel pretty sharp if you pick a warm day. There seems to be two ways to consider the grade: 5.12 moves with 5.13 beta, or 5.13 moves with 5.12 beta. In any case, this one won't be down-rated from 12c any time soon!


Location 

On the panel right of To Bolt, sharing the start with Take a Powder.


Protection 

Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 2, 2007

This is a great description. As someone who has not done the route, I feel like now I know a great deal about it...plus I know now not to get on it unless I'm having one of those rare low-gravity days.

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008

Guess I'll wait a bit before I get on this one. Better tune in my technical arete skills. You definitely gave a really good description about it.