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The Dihedrals
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Almost Nothing 
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Easy Reader 
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Flat Earth, The 
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Karot Tots 
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Latin Lover 
Left Slab Crack 
Lichen It 
Middle Aged Vandal 
Moonshine Dihedral 
Night Flight 
Powder in the Eyes 
Rabbit Stew 
Rattlesnake Chimney 
Right Slab Crack 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut 
Slow Burn 
Sunshine Dihedral 
Take a Powder 
To Bolt Or Not To Be 
Watts Totts 
Wedding Day 

Powder in the Eyes 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JB's sub-man (Jean Marc Troussier, 1986)
Page Views: 1,478
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007
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This notorious sandbag is perhaps the most neglected sport route in the Dihedrals (other contenders: Peepshow, Almost Nothing?). Given 5.12c in the Watts Guide, this line is a big step up in difficulty from Full Heinous or Last Waltz. Many a hard man has been spanked by the deceptive, continuous, funkery lurking innocently left of Take a Powder.

However, if you can get past the grade issue, this line offers a full (half) rope-length of stellar movement on Smith's top-shelf stone.

Begin with the first 3 bolts of Take a Powder. Veer left along the obvious undercling flake, and tackle the subtle arete feature. The first crux hits just above the 4th bolt, then a good clipping stance at the 5th, then the next crux, slapping the left hand up the arete with tricky feet and a difficult 2-finger pocket move. Above the climbing eases slightly, but remains quite technical.

This route can feel pretty sharp if you pick a warm day. There seems to be two ways to consider the grade: 5.12 moves with 5.13 beta, or 5.13 moves with 5.12 beta. In any case, this one won't be down-rated from 12c any time soon!


On the panel right of To Bolt, sharing the start with Take a Powder.


Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor.

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By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 2, 2007

This is a great description. As someone who has not done the route, I feel like now I know a great deal about I know now not to get on it unless I'm having one of those rare low-gravity days.

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008

Guess I'll wait a bit before I get on this one. Better tune in my technical arete skills. You definitely gave a really good description about it.