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The Anvil
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Pounding Herradura 

Pounding Herradura 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: James Garrett, Jeremy Aslaksen, Ben Kiessel/Bill G. (FFA), and your Mom. Boy it was crowded! :-)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 610
Submitted By: Jeremy Aslaksen on Sep 4, 2009
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Anvil's little mascot.

Description 

Climbs the thin crack/dihedral seen from the road. Seems there are anchors at the top! Who knew?


Location 

Drive until you get to the Anvil. Park your car and look up.


Protection 

Cams. Nuts. Maybe a large cam for the top? #4?



Photos of Pounding Herradura Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up the corner.
Starting up the corner.
The anchor above "Pounding Herradurra."
The anchor above "Pounding Herradurra."
Comments on Pounding Herradura Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
Jan 19, 2013

Nice route Jeremy!
It's probably gone free before but we freed it yesterday at 5.10 with a little jog left about 3/4 of the way up. Bill freed the direct line on top rope at 5.11. Little heads up in spots because of the loose character of the route.
I brought a double set from .3 to 3 camalot, plus a couple smaller cams and a #4 and #5.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 21, 2013

All,

I have a classic story about this. Soloed this years ago thinking it was a new route as James had stated he had drilled a bolt for a solo anchor and I couldn't find one to save my life. Weird huh?

Anyhoo it way over 100 degrees outside...I get to the top totally delirious look everywhere for an anchor and can't find one. As I recall I had to do all sorts of shenanigans to find gear (no drill). So I clean my gear and go to rap off of the shorter side (not facing the road). I must have rapped of of some slug crapola...but at the bottom of my rap I see a very low bolt. Ahhh I thought...that's the story.

But wait...there's more!

The real story is that it was James's route I was on I just TOTALLY missed the anchors in Ben's pic! HAHAHA! It was REALLY HOT and as I recall I was quite hung over. What a Maroon!

So there you go! I changed what I could in the description to reflect the info above.

BTW, as I was standing on the surface of the sun...I mean the summit...I was swarmed by THOUSANDS of strange buzzing flies! Really freaked me out.

Good route James!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:-)

Jeremy Aslaksen
ABQ, NM

By Ben Kiessel
Jan 23, 2013

OK I was a little confused before and now I'm really confused.

Here is what I know...
-In DR4 it says that Pounding Herradurra faces SW (which faces away from the road), while the corner that in the picture in DR4 that Jeremy and I climbed faces NE.
-There is no bolt on the NE corner route and no anchor on top of the corner.
-The only rappel anchor that we found on the summit was on a route that faced SW and had a bolt down low. (sorry if it was unclear, but we rappelled from an anchor down the SW side)

James we need some help here.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 23, 2013

Ummm...huh?

Hilarious! I wonder if i rapped of of those anchors Ben?

Shit...I need some more coffee!

JA

By Ben Kiessel
Jan 23, 2013

Well I can tell you that there were carabiners that were spray painted blue on the anchor. A usually think of those as yours.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 23, 2013

HA! Ran out of those shitty biners years ago! GOOD RIDDANCE!

Now THAT'S some funny shit Ben.

:-)

JA

By James Garrett
Jan 23, 2013

Sorry about the confusion!
First of all, I love the Mascot on top....way cool. We need more of that kind of stuff on desert tower tops.
As for Hx of the route, Christopher W Donharl (aka The Harl-19yo at the time!) and I had spent quite a bit of the January 2000 there in Valley Of The Gods while on the road trip of road trips on our way to El Potrero (where we had pounded more than a little of the Herradura, btw). In March, he decided to stay on longer and I returned to the roadside chunk of rock that looked like an Anvil on the way back home. The route I chose and the line I had previously scoped was visible from the roadside. It also seemed to be the better quality rock and to be the line of least resistance.

The report to Eric may have been incorrect as to orientation, but I believe it is correctly shown as per location (it looks like the line to me?) on page 361 of DR IV.

The two-bolt rappel station pointed to by Jeremy in the photo of the Anvil also looks familiar. Apparently, Jeremy and Ben also found the bolt low down which I used to self belay.

Finally, this tiny tower hardly deserves all the attention that Jeremy and Ben's other more impressive Utah desert accomplishments should, but hearing or reading about the accurate historical record is always entertaining for me! Appreciate the story!
If the route you guys did was on the other side of where the belay bolt and rap station is, then please re-submit it into the data....because it would imply a new line indeed.
Thanks