P.O.T.C. 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Frank Sanders & Dennis Horning '78 |
| Submitted By: | John Gunnels on Oct 16, 2006 |
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description P1: This pitch is nothing short of STELLAR. The crack starts very thin and gradually widens to hands. The coolest move is moving past the large roof to your left. Stem your way to a semi hanging belay under the second large roof. Notice the great deal of texture difference between the left and right walls. Mother Nature is SOOOOO wondrous... P2: Pass the roof on the left, through the off-width section to the column top. P3: Either traverse right to the Meadows, or finish on "Bailey Direct". NOTE: Most parties rappel after P1.
Location The route begins three cracks left of Durrance under the prominent roof.
Protection Stoppers, Camalots to #3.
By Trevor Bowman From: Sheridan, WY May 24, 2009
| The first pitch offers great movement, but crunchy rock and some munge in the crack...as is all too common at the Tower, this is a fine pitch which goes neglected and as a result hasn't cleaned up well. There are two fixed pins down low which seem OK. You can TR this with a single 70m rope if you scramble off the belay ledge a bit (easy). |
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