Potato Chipper 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | John Musso, Wayne Montoya, Rick Thomspon |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on May 30, 2007 |
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Description An excellent, new addition to Shelf, this route is only slightly squeezed in (as compared to other routes of this era).
Begin just right of Precious Stone, climbing up to the ledge and the first bolt. Traverse right to the rounded arete, presumably avoiding the big column out right. Head up the prow with some difficult slaps to a great rest at mid-height. A massive pocket provides some good underclinging possibilities, and sequential pockets and a mono head up to easier ground and the anchors. This route is a bit contrived. One could probably stem to the right wall at numerous spots, but if you put on your 'Shelf blinders' this is a great route on perfect rock.
Location 100 feet north of the Family Jewels section is a clean wall with 2 bolted routes. Potato Chipper is the right route on this wall.
Protection Bolts to 2 BA.
| Comments on Potato Chipper |
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By Alex Shainman
From: Portland, OR
Oct 30, 2010
| Awfully contrived with the corner on the right and discontinuous movement. Not nearly as good as the route to its left. |
By slim
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| Pretty tedious to not use the column/stance at the bottom. Hanging the draw at the 3rd bolt is a long reach, even if you are 6'2", +2. Couldn't quite get it clipped and had to clip off tough holds with a thin stance. Fell just as I got the rope clipped. Another bolt up high was hard to hang the draw as well. Do yourself a favor, try to have your partner hang the draws. If the 3rd bolt was about 6" lower, it would be a pretty easy clip. I thought this was a slight knock against the route. with some minor tweaks it could be 3 or 4 stars. |
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