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Elevation: 998 ft
GPS: 43.3751, -73.82928
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,652 total · 139/month
Shared By: The Morse-Bradys on Jun 13, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

Description Suggest change

This relatively small cliff offers a variety of good quality climbing, with both sport and trad routes. It is mostly south-facing, so gets daytime sun. However, there is plenty of tree shade and decent belay areas.

The rock is some variety of granite, with positive holds or cracks.

Getting There Suggest change

As of July 2019, the private land you cross to reach Potash Cliff has active logging and the directions for accessing the cliff has changed. Both the parking and trail are easy to find and make for a fast approach to Potash.

From the Northway (I-87) Exit 21 (0.0 mile), go south towards Lake Luzerne on NY 9N for 7.0 miles to the hamlet of Fourth Lake. Turn right (north) onto Potash Road which is opposite the entrance to the Fourth Lake DEC Campground and next to Harris Grocery. At 8.0 miles, Potash Road crosses beneath a powerline. Park along the shoulder on the right (uphill) side of the road, below the powerlines. Walk back (south) along Potash Road for 500'. The cliff is visible low on the mountain. Locate a cairn next to the road on the left (uphill) shoulder; the approach trail begins here. If you walk past a "Children at Play" road sign, then you have gone too far. The easy trail goes through open woods and ascends through a talus field to reach the left end of the cliff near Eat Dessert First, a right-rising finger- and hand-crack on a steep, 30'-tall wall. The hiking time from the road is 5 min. There are three poorly marked property lines, including the state land boundary, in the vicinity of the approach trail. Additionally, there is a house within view of the trail, so keep to the trail until you reach Potash Cliff.

Access

Suggest change
As of July 2019, due to logging, the approach has been modified. The new approach is easy and fast. That said, there are still several access issues to remember when visiting the cliff; respect private land access, obey Peregrine Falcon closures, and observe snowmobile right-of-way along Potash Road. The local snowmobile club has the right-of-way from December to April for the uphill (east) shoulder of Potash Road. Take this into consideration when parking and walking the road to the approach trail. The approach to Potash Cliff crosses private property, specifically, the new trail that goes directly uphill between the road and the cliff. The landowner generously allows climbers to access the state land using this trail. Avoid loitering at the parking area and along the trail to the state land. Camping is not allowed on the private land, and the climber trail is not intended for general hiking on Potash Mountain. Peregrine Falcons have been nesting for many years at the right end of the cliff, but the closures have little effect on the climbing routes. Respect all closures and check the DEC website each spring for further details.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Potash Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Anopheles
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Bunny Slope
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
El Regalo
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Double Diamond
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Endless Journey
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Iron Cross
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Anopheles
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bunny Slope
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
El Regalo
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Double Diamond
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Endless Journey
 4
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Iron Cross
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Potash Cliff »

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