Pot Belly 5.9
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Bill Griffin, Bruce Price, 4/73. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Sep 27, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Pot belly takes the face to the wide crack and the...
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is the first climb that one comes to upon reaching the cliff.
It follows a crack that doesn't reach the ground. Either undercling in from the left or do tricky slab moves up to the crack. Follow this crack (5.7) to a ledge with two bolts.
A second pitch can be done. Move left from the ledge and up a 5.9 crack. This pitch is seldom done and not that good.
Protection Pro to 2". Bigger for second pitch.
Jerry leading Pot Belly.
Photo by Sandra
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Sandra on the nice, low angle hand crack.
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BETA PHOTO: Pot Belly Route at Knob Hill in Yosemite.
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By Matt Lundy
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.7
| I was up here in April '07 and I didn't notice any bolts. You can easily set up a TR anchor with a #1 and #4 Camalot. There is also a wedged rock you can sling. Try the thinner crack that slants diagonally left (10a fingers) while on toprope. |
By brodent
Nov 10, 2007
| Yes, when I was there Nov. 6, 2007 the two bolts had been removed. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Decent climb but short. The face moves to gain the crack are slick - 5.9. The transition feels 5.7 but the rest of the crack is easy. |
By John Ely
From: DC
Oct 13, 2009
| If you take the left hand crack after the face, there is one really exciting but protected 5.9 mantle move. |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 15, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| These comments make me feel better about climbing so poorly on 5.8 slab. After sliding/falling 3 times on the start when leading, I chose the undercling variation, which is much more manageable (although it would be ugly if you fell near the end, as if your feet popped out on the slick granite, you would smash your face into the undercling lip before you fell to the ground). I could do it on TR, but it felt really hard! Perhaps it has gotten slicker over the years?
Ditto about the crack above. I couldn't find the bolts, and attempted to climb this crack thinking that maybe the bolts were higher. That crack has an intense lieback on corroding granite covered in lichen. Fell once on that from my feet ripping off some exfoliating granite before deciding it was a dumb idea to continue up it due to the unknown terrain, cruddy rock, and ledges to hit if you fell. |
By SKI
From: Portlandia, OR
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.7
| Don't overthink the bottom start. Get a running start and hit the jug below the crack. Best done in approach shoes. Undercling is 5.7 at most. When in doubt, follow the path of least lichen/black granite! |
By Nick Zmyewski
From: Newark, Delaware
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.8+
| The start feels like hard 8 or 9 slab, then the crack is 7ish. good to practice your slab edging |
By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.8
| The beta from locals has the right hand crack at 5.8, and the left finger crack at 5.9 No bolts. I think the supertopo guide had the same grade(s). |
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