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Routes in Main Wall
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Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casual Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Chameleon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crescent Loon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cross, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Garden of Earthly Delights, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hidden Secrets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horse Chaser T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lowe/Kudo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Panda Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Reckoner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sailing Shoes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Smokin’ Toasters T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Toetally aka Shoe Recall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Trout-Jamieson T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Y Not Continue? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown, approx. 1972 ?? |
| Page Views: | 2,701 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a good landmark for orienting yourself when climbing on the Ophir Wall. The route follows the prominent chimney system which is a few hundred feet right of the center of the Ophir Wall and is almost directly uphill from the Ophir Post Office - hence the name. (But do not approach from the post office, the house behind it is privately owned. The parking pullout is a couple hundred feet left, west, of the post office.) Pitch one is clean, long and good and many parties climb just this pitch. The upper pitches wander a bit and go through some loose blocks that are a little spooky. Wear a helmet.
1) Climb cracks and chimney for 150 feet. A short squeeze section at about 80 feet is probably the crux of the entire climb. After exiting the chimney an anchor can be found out right on the large ledge. If continuing up, arranging a belay at the base of the next crack would be advisable. Anchors may have been flattened by rockfall.
2) 120 feet. Climb a good handcrack to easier ground and up into a large roof which is easier than it looks. Continue through some looseness to some old webbing found in a corner which can easily be backed up (or ignored) with some cams.
3) 100 feet. Continue up the corner and through a short offwidth/chimney section. This pitch seems to have a few options but you are aiming for the larger, right-facing corner up higher. There is a large slung block out left at the base of said corner.
4) 100 feet. Climb up the large, corner system. The easiest/most obvious line goes up the face about 5-10 feet out right from the corner. Pitch ends at a slung tree.
The first three pitches all have some 5.8. The fourth is probably 5.7. To descend, traverse 80 feet right (might want to belay) to another anchor and follow bolted rap stations back to the ground. There are a couple different options. 4 raps in all, 2 ropes are needed. Great way to get off the ground but the climbing goes downhill after the first pitch and a half. The first pitch could be used to access the Y-crack by traversing left on the Tennis Shoe Traverse.
1) Climb cracks and chimney for 150 feet. A short squeeze section at about 80 feet is probably the crux of the entire climb. After exiting the chimney an anchor can be found out right on the large ledge. If continuing up, arranging a belay at the base of the next crack would be advisable. Anchors may have been flattened by rockfall.
2) 120 feet. Climb a good handcrack to easier ground and up into a large roof which is easier than it looks. Continue through some looseness to some old webbing found in a corner which can easily be backed up (or ignored) with some cams.
3) 100 feet. Continue up the corner and through a short offwidth/chimney section. This pitch seems to have a few options but you are aiming for the larger, right-facing corner up higher. There is a large slung block out left at the base of said corner.
4) 100 feet. Climb up the large, corner system. The easiest/most obvious line goes up the face about 5-10 feet out right from the corner. Pitch ends at a slung tree.
The first three pitches all have some 5.8. The fourth is probably 5.7. To descend, traverse 80 feet right (might want to belay) to another anchor and follow bolted rap stations back to the ground. There are a couple different options. 4 raps in all, 2 ropes are needed. Great way to get off the ground but the climbing goes downhill after the first pitch and a half. The first pitch could be used to access the Y-crack by traversing left on the Tennis Shoe Traverse.
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