All Locations > New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall

Post Moderate

Name: Post Moderate
Rating: 3.6

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Winter Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Bosch Hogg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Highly Caffeinated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Xibalba S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Sport, 135 ft (41 m)
FA:	Rick Bradshaw, Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Dennis Newell, 11/2000
Page Views:	19,871 total · 90/month
Shared By:	Anthony Stout on Feb 13, 2006
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Post Moderate is an area classic and the best moderate at Diablo Canyon! Start at the post (circled on detailed area map) and enjoy (~135 feet).

This route is LONG! You'll need 17 quickdraws and a plan for getting off the route from the top.

To find Post Moderate, look for the wooden post at the base of the route towards the left end of Winter Wall.

Protection

17 bolts to a chain anchors at a comfy stance with steel mussy hooks. The 9th bolt has a brown-painted cable quick draw on it. See below if you're unfamiliar with how permadraws facilitate the cleaning of steep and/or wandering routes.

Alternatively, it is quite common for parties to climb Post Moderate to the 9th bolt and make a hard left to the anchors of Highly Caffeinated to avoid hauling a second rope to the top anchor and rappelling on two ropes. A fixed brown cable quickdraw on the 9th bolt serves to both signify when the leader should cut left to the anchors of Highly Caffeinated and to greatly facilitate cleaning the draws as the lowering leader cleans the route. That is, when the lowering leader begins to get lowered she/he should clip their end of the rope into this fixed chain draw. This results in the lowering leader staying in line with the bolt line and eliminates a big swing to the left when the final draw is cleaned up. This fixed chain draw should not be used as a single-bolt anchor!

Descent

The descent can be done in two rappels with a single 60m rope by using the rap anchors on Highly Caffeinated for the second rappel. It may be faster and/or more comfortable to drag a second rope and rappel with two ropes from the top.

Lowering from the top with a single 80m rope will leave the climber roughly ten feet off the ground with some mandatory but very easy downclimbing at the bottom of Highly Caffeinated to get down safely. If someone is planning to follow/toprope in this configuration, remove your draws as you lower to get as much length as possible and clip the climber's strand into the fixed draw. Tie a knot in the end of the rope if doing this.

Alternatively, It is quite common for parties to climb Post Moderate to the 9th bolt and make a hard left to the anchors of Highly Caffeinated to climb just the lower half of Post Moderate on a single 60m rope. A fixed brown cable quick draw is on the 9th bolt to both signify when the leader should cut left to the anchors of Highly Caffeinated and to greatly facilitate cleaning the draws as the lowering leader cleans the route. That is, when the lowering leader begins to get lowered she/he should clip their end of the rope into this fixed chain draw. This results in the lowering leader staying in line with the bolt line and eliminates a big swing to the left when the final draw is cleaned up. This is common practice on steeper routes or wandering routes to aid the lowering leader in cleaning the draws. This fixed chain draw should not be used a single-bolt anchor!