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Dec 13, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
>
Pretty awesome. Thanks for posting.
Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,605 points
Dec 22, 2012



"Spicy Times" !!!!

Great video.
paul y.
Joined Sep 26, 2011
11 points



although he doesn't make it this guy really gives it a go. hats off to him!
Dec 24, 2012
the man was smart
sweet try on the 5.13a offwidth onsight w/beta attempt T Roper
From VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,056 points
Dec 27, 2012
That was awesome!!
The climbing was great, the scenery was beautiful, and they didn't take themselves too seriously. Probably not a great "how to" video for beginners. I loved the editing and commentary. In the beginning they had to have meant for her to look like she was talking to the sheep. that was great.
Oh yeah, She is SMOKIN' hot!!!
Thanks for the link.
gary ohm
From Paso Robles
Joined Jul 26, 2010
1 points
Dec 28, 2012
"hotness" depends on how old (desperate) you are ;) bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,033 points
Administrator
Dec 28, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
Really? I couldn't make it through this one. Blecch. And "hot girl" is a stretch, even by climber standards.


Her face doesn't exactly look like death dropped a steamer on top of her neck, but I agree, it's not "hot". However, her body is. Methinks you've been in Vegas too long looking at plastic boobies. This is not every day reality lol.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,004 points
Administrator
Dec 28, 2012
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
Really? I couldn't make it through this one. Blecch. And "hot girl" is a stretch, even by climber standards.


she's def a cutie... u kids would jump at having her in your van down by the river for a night....
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,420 points
Administrator
Dec 29, 2012
El Chorro
NorCalNomad wrote:
People who chalk up more than they touch the rock should be made to downclimb it with a toothbrush scrubbing the excess chalk off. Espcially on well traveled routes.


You've obviously never been to North Wales. Climbing on slate is like climbing on glass, and the routes all run with water for half the year so nature does the scrubbing for you. Finally, The Quarryan is not really a "well traveled route.". Not many repeats of the crux pitch (2?)and the entire route (4 pitches) has never seen a one day ascent.

The fact that it is 4 pitches of mostly serious trad climbing is why it gets an E grade. The other pitches aren't all bolt protected and aren't very safe. Also, according to Johnny Dawes (guy in the vid), if you fall anywhere on the second half of the bolted crux pitch, you smash your face open. The E grade isn't just about danger either, but overall seriousness and sustainedness (I know, that's not a word).

Back in the day the E grade was used for everything in the UK. All those sport routes at Malham Cove were originally given E grades. It wasn't until the 80's (around the same time as this vid was taken) that you started to see French sport grades used. The Yorkshire Limestone routes were mostly changed over to the sport grades but in Wales, things change slowly, if at all.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Ryan Williams wrote:
You've obviously never been to North Wales. Climbing on late is like climbing on glass, and the routes all run with water for half the year so nature does the scrubbing for you. Finally, The Quarryan is not really a "well traveled route.". Not many repeats of the crux pitch (2?)and the entire route (4 pitches) has never seen a one day ascent. The fact that it is 4 pitches of mostly serious trad climbing is why it gets an E grade. The other pitches aren't all bolt protected and aren't very safe. Also, according to Johnny Dawes (guy in the vid), if you fall anywhere on the second half of the bolted crux pitch, you smash your face open. The E grade isn't just about danger either, but overall seriousness and sustainedness (I know, that's not a word). Back in the day the E grade was used for everything in the UK. All those sport routes at Malham Cove were originally given E grades. It wasn't until the 80's (around the same time as this vid was taken) that you started to see French sport grades used. The Yorkshire Limestone routes were mostly changed over to the sport grades but in Wales, things change slowly, if at all.

kinda sounds like Connecticut LOL!
Administrator
Dec 29, 2012
El Chorro
thefish wrote:
kinda sounds like Connecticut LOL!


Haha, yea a bit I guess. Except the slate would be the best climbing in CT. In Wales it's not even in the top half!
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
yeah CT is one big choss, pile everyone should go away and not climb here!

in actuality most people have! LOL
Administrator
Dec 29, 2012
El Chorro
thefish wrote:
yeah CT is one big choss, pile everyone should go away and not climb here! in actuality most people have! LOL


I was just messing with ya man I don't know anything about the climbing in CT. If you've got good crags with no crowds you should try and keep it that way!
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points

Here is one of the locals
Jan 7, 2013
amateur whipper video from Squamish:

b.r.e.t.
Joined Nov 18, 2012
1 points
Jan 9, 2013
The view from GT Ledge in the Gunks
Little series that Patagonia made.









Lou C
Joined Nov 7, 2011
22 points
Jan 9, 2013


Leavitt, Yaniro, and Skip Guerrin's crotch!
Dbang
Joined Dec 12, 2012
0 points
Jan 12, 2013
Me on Supercrack
No hard guy busting moves I'll never do, just everyday people out having the most fun.
MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Joined Dec 20, 2011
280 points
Jan 12, 2013
mexico
Evictor in Eldo, taken by my friend Bill Karam.

Evictor
.


Best thread ever btw.
Patrick Vernon
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Jan 1, 2001
991 points
Jan 21, 2013


Stumbled across it on youtube, really some of the more interesting angles Ive seen in a trad video.
Goldsmith
From Ithaca, New York
Joined Jun 14, 2009
0 points
Jan 23, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.
A short film portraying a climber's life in Ireland, including multiple first and second ascents. 34 mins. Enjoy!


Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Joined Apr 30, 2012
129 points
Administrator
Jan 24, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Fantastic vid Rob! Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,004 points
Jan 24, 2013
Definitely great video! UK and Ireland climbers have serious stones.

Plus they are still rocking duck tails.

Jim
jim.dangle
Joined Jul 13, 2011
2,732 points
Jan 24, 2013
A lovely chimney
Greenland Sailing = best climbing movies ever Evan Riley
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Jun 16, 2009
69 points
Jan 25, 2013
Dey Took Yer Jeb!!!
youtu.be/QMW6IyaS_4M Rick Carpenter
From Banner Elk, NC
Joined Aug 29, 2010
288 points


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