By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Dec 11, 2012
| Taylor Ogden wrote: The Quarryman vid seems more like a video resume for a stunt man, rather than an actual climb. "Here's a few examples of the different stunts I can do." He pulled all sorts of weird shenanigans to send that thing.
This guy though...
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By Dbang
Dec 12, 2012
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An obscure crag with some amazing climbing. |
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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Dec 12, 2012
| John Marsella wrote: Glad to see this guy pulling on bushes. This justifies my use of the tactic.
Wait, living things don't count as holds? Half my tick list is a lie. Now it's reallllly sad. I too have never been greeted by livestock upon topping out. I'm starting to believe I have no idea what I'm doing.
I happened upon these last night when I was looking up WC Heliums. I had no idea even the smallest ones were still over 10kn. Awesome. And you're welcome. |
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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Dec 13, 2012
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pretty entertaining and inspiring! |
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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Dec 13, 2012
| >
Pretty awesome. Thanks for posting. |
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By paul y.
Dec 22, 2012
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"Spicy Times" !!!!
Great video. |
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By Unassigned User
Dec 24, 2012
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although he doesn't make it this guy really gives it a go. hats off to him! |
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By Fall Guy
Dec 24, 2012
| sweet try on the 5.13a offwidth onsight w/beta attempt |
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By gary ohm
From Paso Robles
Dec 27, 2012
| That was awesome!!
The climbing was great, the scenery was beautiful, and they didn't take themselves too seriously. Probably not a great "how to" video for beginners. I loved the editing and commentary. In the beginning they had to have meant for her to look like she was talking to the sheep. that was great.
Oh yeah, She is SMOKIN' hot!!!
Thanks for the link. |
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By Killing In The Name Of
Dec 27, 2012
| Really? I couldn't make it through this one. Blecch. And "hot girl" is a stretch, even by climber standards. |
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By bearbreeder
Dec 28, 2012
| "hotness" depends on how old (desperate) you are ;) |
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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Dec 28, 2012
| Smarty Ports/Shants wrote: Really? I couldn't make it through this one. Blecch. And "hot girl" is a stretch, even by climber standards.
Her face doesn't exactly look like death dropped a steamer on top of her neck, but I agree, it's not "hot". However, her body is. Methinks you've been in Vegas too long looking at plastic boobies. This is not every day reality lol. |
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By CaptainMo
Administrator
Dec 28, 2012
| Smarty Ports/Shants wrote: Really? I couldn't make it through this one. Blecch. And "hot girl" is a stretch, even by climber standards.
she's def a cutie... u kids would jump at having her in your van down by the river for a night.... |
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By Killing In The Name Of
Dec 29, 2012
| I'll admit to being spoiled, but the plastic fantastic has nothing to do with it, I typically run the other direction when I spot the Fakebags. I'm not convinced that by my tastes Vegas is any more full of hotties than anywhere else, but, as Jake noted, maybe I'm just used to it. I remember spending time at UNC Chapel Hill in some sort of fever dream, between New York City and Carrboro, I'll take Carrboro for wall-to-wall jaw-dropping status based on my personal experiences. Maybe that was a high testosterone week, I seemed to be the only one courting heart failure or at the very least neck strain when I hung out down there for a few days. Those Southern accents, too...
It's actually pretty sexist and sad that we're going on and on about it, but it is what it is. Maybe sometime I'll get bored and try to sit thru the vid. Ehh...spurt clamming. |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 29, 2012
| NorCalNomad wrote: People who chalk up more than they touch the rock should be made to downclimb it with a toothbrush scrubbing the excess chalk off. Espcially on well traveled routes.
You've obviously never been to North Wales. Climbing on slate is like climbing on glass, and the routes all run with water for half the year so nature does the scrubbing for you. Finally, The Quarryan is not really a "well traveled route.". Not many repeats of the crux pitch (2?)and the entire route (4 pitches) has never seen a one day ascent.
The fact that it is 4 pitches of mostly serious trad climbing is why it gets an E grade. The other pitches aren't all bolt protected and aren't very safe. Also, according to Johnny Dawes (guy in the vid), if you fall anywhere on the second half of the bolted crux pitch, you smash your face open. The E grade isn't just about danger either, but overall seriousness and sustainedness (I know, that's not a word).
Back in the day the E grade was used for everything in the UK. All those sport routes at Malham Cove were originally given E grades. It wasn't until the 80's (around the same time as this vid was taken) that you started to see French sport grades used. The Yorkshire Limestone routes were mostly changed over to the sport grades but in Wales, things change slowly, if at all. |
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By Unassigned User
Dec 29, 2012
| Ryan Williams wrote: You've obviously never been to North Wales. Climbing on late is like climbing on glass, and the routes all run with water for half the year so nature does the scrubbing for you. Finally, The Quarryan is not really a "well traveled route.". Not many repeats of the crux pitch (2?)and the entire route (4 pitches) has never seen a one day ascent. The fact that it is 4 pitches of mostly serious trad climbing is why it gets an E grade. The other pitches aren't all bolt protected and aren't very safe. Also, according to Johnny Dawes (guy in the vid), if you fall anywhere on the second half of the bolted crux pitch, you smash your face open. The E grade isn't just about danger either, but overall seriousness and sustainedness (I know, that's not a word). Back in the day the E grade was used for everything in the UK. All those sport routes at Malham Cove were originally given E grades. It wasn't until the 80's (around the same time as this vid was taken) that you started to see French sport grades used. The Yorkshire Limestone routes were mostly changed over to the sport grades but in Wales, things change slowly, if at all.
kinda sounds like Connecticut LOL! |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 29, 2012
| thefish wrote: kinda sounds like Connecticut LOL!
Haha, yea a bit I guess. Except the slate would be the best climbing in CT. In Wales it's not even in the top half! |
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By Unassigned User
Dec 29, 2012
| yeah CT is one big choss, pile everyone should go away and not climb here!
in actuality most people have! LOL |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 29, 2012
| thefish wrote: yeah CT is one big choss, pile everyone should go away and not climb here! in actuality most people have! LOL
I was just messing with ya man I don't know anything about the climbing in CT. If you've got good crags with no crowds you should try and keep it that way! |
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By b.r.e.t.
Jan 7, 2013
| amateur whipper video from Squamish:
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By Lou C
Jan 9, 2013
| Little series that Patagonia made.
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By Dbang
Jan 9, 2013
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Leavitt, Yaniro, and Skip Guerrin's crotch! |
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By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Jan 12, 2013
| No hard guy busting moves I'll never do, just everyday people out having the most fun.
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