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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Dec 13, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

>
Pretty awesome. Thanks for posting.


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By paul y.
Dec 22, 2012




"Spicy Times" !!!!

Great video.


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By Unassigned User
Dec 24, 2012




although he doesn't make it this guy really gives it a go. hats off to him!


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Dec 24, 2012
modern man

sweet try on the 5.13a offwidth onsight w/beta attempt


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By gary ohm
From Paso Robles
Dec 27, 2012

That was awesome!!
The climbing was great, the scenery was beautiful, and they didn't take themselves too seriously. Probably not a great "how to" video for beginners. I loved the editing and commentary. In the beginning they had to have meant for her to look like she was talking to the sheep. that was great.
Oh yeah, She is SMOKIN' hot!!!
Thanks for the link.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Dec 27, 2012
Thumbtastic

Really? I couldn't make it through this one. Blecch. And "hot girl" is a stretch, even by climber standards.


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By bearbreeder
Dec 28, 2012

"hotness" depends on how old (desperate) you are ;)


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Dec 28, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
Really? I couldn't make it through this one. Blecch. And "hot girl" is a stretch, even by climber standards.


Her face doesn't exactly look like death dropped a steamer on top of her neck, but I agree, it's not "hot". However, her body is. Methinks you've been in Vegas too long looking at plastic boobies. This is not every day reality lol.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Dec 28, 2012
Stoked...

Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
Really? I couldn't make it through this one. Blecch. And "hot girl" is a stretch, even by climber standards.


she's def a cutie... u kids would jump at having her in your van down by the river for a night....


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Dec 29, 2012
Thumbtastic

I'll admit to being spoiled, but the plastic fantastic has nothing to do with it, I typically run the other direction when I spot the Fakebags. I'm not convinced that by my tastes Vegas is any more full of hotties than anywhere else, but, as Jake noted, maybe I'm just used to it. I remember spending time at UNC Chapel Hill in some sort of fever dream, between New York City and Carrboro, I'll take Carrboro for wall-to-wall jaw-dropping status based on my personal experiences. Maybe that was a high testosterone week, I seemed to be the only one courting heart failure or at the very least neck strain when I hung out down there for a few days. Those Southern accents, too...

It's actually pretty sexist and sad that we're going on and on about it, but it is what it is. Maybe sometime I'll get bored and try to sit thru the vid. Ehh...spurt clamming.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 29, 2012
El Chorro

NorCalNomad wrote:
People who chalk up more than they touch the rock should be made to downclimb it with a toothbrush scrubbing the excess chalk off. Espcially on well traveled routes.


You've obviously never been to North Wales. Climbing on slate is like climbing on glass, and the routes all run with water for half the year so nature does the scrubbing for you. Finally, The Quarryan is not really a "well traveled route.". Not many repeats of the crux pitch (2?)and the entire route (4 pitches) has never seen a one day ascent.

The fact that it is 4 pitches of mostly serious trad climbing is why it gets an E grade. The other pitches aren't all bolt protected and aren't very safe. Also, according to Johnny Dawes (guy in the vid), if you fall anywhere on the second half of the bolted crux pitch, you smash your face open. The E grade isn't just about danger either, but overall seriousness and sustainedness (I know, that's not a word).

Back in the day the E grade was used for everything in the UK. All those sport routes at Malham Cove were originally given E grades. It wasn't until the 80's (around the same time as this vid was taken) that you started to see French sport grades used. The Yorkshire Limestone routes were mostly changed over to the sport grades but in Wales, things change slowly, if at all.


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By Unassigned User
Dec 29, 2012

Ryan Williams wrote:
You've obviously never been to North Wales. Climbing on late is like climbing on glass, and the routes all run with water for half the year so nature does the scrubbing for you. Finally, The Quarryan is not really a "well traveled route.". Not many repeats of the crux pitch (2?)and the entire route (4 pitches) has never seen a one day ascent. The fact that it is 4 pitches of mostly serious trad climbing is why it gets an E grade. The other pitches aren't all bolt protected and aren't very safe. Also, according to Johnny Dawes (guy in the vid), if you fall anywhere on the second half of the bolted crux pitch, you smash your face open. The E grade isn't just about danger either, but overall seriousness and sustainedness (I know, that's not a word). Back in the day the E grade was used for everything in the UK. All those sport routes at Malham Cove were originally given E grades. It wasn't until the 80's (around the same time as this vid was taken) that you started to see French sport grades used. The Yorkshire Limestone routes were mostly changed over to the sport grades but in Wales, things change slowly, if at all.

kinda sounds like Connecticut LOL!


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 29, 2012
El Chorro

thefish wrote:
kinda sounds like Connecticut LOL!


Haha, yea a bit I guess. Except the slate would be the best climbing in CT. In Wales it's not even in the top half!


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By Unassigned User
Dec 29, 2012

yeah CT is one big choss, pile everyone should go away and not climb here!

in actuality most people have! LOL


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 29, 2012
El Chorro

thefish wrote:
yeah CT is one big choss, pile everyone should go away and not climb here! in actuality most people have! LOL


I was just messing with ya man I don't know anything about the climbing in CT. If you've got good crags with no crowds you should try and keep it that way!


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By Unassigned User
Dec 29, 2012


Here is one of the locals


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By b.r.e.t.
Jan 7, 2013

amateur whipper video from Squamish:


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By Lou C
Jan 9, 2013
The view from GT Ledge in the Gunks

Little series that Patagonia made.










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By Dbang
Jan 9, 2013



Leavitt, Yaniro, and Skip Guerrin's crotch!


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By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Jan 12, 2013
Me on Supercrack

No hard guy busting moves I'll never do, just everyday people out having the most fun.


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By PatrickV
From Albuquerque, New Mexico
Jan 12, 2013
mexico

Evictor in Eldo, taken by my friend Bill Karam.

Evictor

.


Best thread ever btw.


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By Goldsmith
From Ithaca, New York
Jan 21, 2013



Stumbled across it on youtube, really some of the more interesting angles Ive seen in a trad video.


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By Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Jan 23, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.

A short film portraying a climber's life in Ireland, including multiple first and second ascents. 34 mins. Enjoy!



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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Jan 24, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Fantastic vid Rob!


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By jim.dangle
Jan 24, 2013

Definitely great video! UK and Ireland climbers have serious stones.

Plus they are still rocking duck tails.

Jim


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