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Possible crag.
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By JTowny
From Phoenix, Arizona
Feb 21, 2014
messing around

I found this place a while back but I'm not sure if there are any restrictions for bolting in this area. If its a go then I would like to invite anyone with a drill to come help develop this little gem of a crag. there were a few more down the road that looked nice too. It is located about 15 miles down eagle eye road which you can get to by heading about 10 miles down the Salome highway. Since I am new to developing I would really like to have someone experienced help so I don't mess anything up. There is alot of potential for easy and hard routes here. It's about an hour drive from Phoenix. Let me know if you are interested and I can show you the crag. ps: can anybody tell what type of rock it is? In one of the pictures it looks like a limestone kind off but other areas a wird volcanic rock and maybe conglomerate. I'm not much of a geologist so I would like to know.

The whole thing
The whole thing


There is an arch!
There is an arch!


A cool looking route with a huge roof!
A cool looking route with a huge roof!


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By JTowny
From Phoenix, Arizona
Feb 21, 2014
messing around

Here's a few more pictures

This is the route with the roof. It is pretty tall
This is the route with the roof. It is pretty tall


This looks like one of the harder routes that could go up
This looks like one of the harder routes that could go up


on the right there is a cool cave that flattens out and turns into a possible 2 pitch route? looks worthwhile.
on the right there is a cool cave that flattens out and turns into a possible 2 pitch route? looks worthwhile.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Feb 21, 2014
Stabby

For starters, locate it on Google Maps to do a quick check on ownership status. You might have to inquire with the BLM or the county. I'm assuming you didn't have to cross any barb wire fences with No Trespassing signs, right? Beware the Wilderness designation; you'll have to claim your *hand drilled* all the routes wink wink.
Looks like a type of volcanic Tuft to me also.


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By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Feb 21, 2014

Go climb Courthouse Rock on the south side of I-10. It is similar volcanic rock. The Superstitions also have some fine choss and good rock if you look for it.

Often you find something worth climbing but this rock is soft. If you are bolting, what type of bolts are you using? Glue in and five piece expansion bolts may work. If the rock they are placed into is hard enough. I've seen friends hand drill in this rock in 15 minutes. I didn't trust those bolts.


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By aSteel
Feb 21, 2014

Step one is find out who owns the land, and I'm afraid that can be a time consuming process. It's not as easy as checking Google, because records are often not up to date in areas like this. It would be a bummer to drop hundreds of dollars on new routes, only to have to chop them and lose access permanently after angering a landowner you didn't know had rights to it.

My process of confirmation has been: Use google to get the basic area > Get the official USFS and/or BLM maps (not the Nat Geo maps) and ID possible ownership > Contact possible owner to confirm.

If it doesn't belong to the BLM or USFS, you'll need to start the real hard work: Head to the appropriate County Assessor and peruse the maps of the area. Might want to bring lat/long or UTM coordinates for this trip. Finally, contact those landowners to ensure the Assessor maps are accurate. Once you have reached someone who claims ownership, court them as you would the man or woman of your dreams. This process is especially delicate. accessfund.org has good resources for this process though.

Once you know who owns it, you'll need to find out their rules for it. For the government, its often as straightforward as reading their statements, then trying to interpret. For private landowners, they may need to be helped to find the rules that best bit their comfort.

Then, finally, you can start buying bolts and planning your path to fame and fortune in the climbing world. Good luck!


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By Ian Cavanaugh
Feb 21, 2014

manuel rangel wrote:
I've seen friends hand drill in this rock in 15 minutes. I didn't trust those bolts.


I can place a 2 1/2 bolt in hard granite in sub 15 min. that is a terrible reason to not trust a bolt. If you are good at drilling by hand, then it shouldn't take you much longer than 15min in most types of rock. I have placed anchors at IC with 3 1/2" bolts in IC in about 25 min. check the rock visually, then with a hammer for solid rock, then bounce test the bolt if you are really concerned.


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By TBrumme
From denver, co
Feb 21, 2014

Is this the possible crag? https://goo.gl/maps/WTvmp

If so, looks to be BLM land (or private).


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By JTowny
From Phoenix, Arizona
Feb 21, 2014
messing around

Manuel, I look at that thing everytime I drive out to Salome and wonder if that thing was climbable. I had no idea there were routes! once I get rack someday I would love to climb it! maybe put up something new. for the meanwhile however did you see any potential for any sport or sport multipitch climbing?


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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Feb 21, 2014

A lot of county assessor land ownership data is on line now. Check the county's website & see.


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By JTowny
From Phoenix, Arizona
Feb 21, 2014
messing around

and thanks everyone else, I'm pretty sure it is BLM land and I didn't have to cross any fences or anything that seemed like it could be private land. For bolts I'd probably use longer bolts. would the 5 piece be better or the glue ins?


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By TBrumme
From denver, co
Feb 21, 2014

Use glue-ins. A little more work to place, but they cost less, last longer, and are better for soft rock.

www.climbtechgear.com/wavebolt-glue-in/


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Feb 21, 2014
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

TBrumme wrote:
Use glue-ins. A little more work to place, but they cost less, last longer, and are better for soft rock. www.climbtechgear.com/wavebolt-glue-in/


I'll second this, for soft rock, glue-ins are the only way to go. Good luck and do a good job.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Feb 21, 2014
Stabby

BLM:
Bolt
Like
Mad


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By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Feb 21, 2014

JTowny Courthouse is wilderness and requires hand drilling. There are a couple of sport like routes there: Idiopathic 5.9.

The wilderness boundary for Courthouse Rock is well marked from the east.

I'm impressed that anyone can drill a 3 1/2" x 3/8" bolt in granite in fifteen minutes. I still don't trust those bolts. They loosened as I aided them up the overhanging wall.


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