|The Crimpfest Wall
This is a flat out, dyno-mite route with a bit of historical conflict. Bolts 3 and 4 allow the climber to move rightish or straight up. Straight up seems a bit harder and is very thin. I thought the route to be continuously difficult with several 11d scale moves. Hard at the beginning and hard at the top, it is a classic crimpfest.
Lots of QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. This is a long route, so bring 16-18 QDs.
Oct 9, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This is a great route and really caters to more of a bouldering style of climber. 3 hard sections with 100% rest before the hard climbing. It took me a long time to figure out the 3rd crux, just above the midway anchor. It seems impossible until you do it, and then you still kind of don't know how you did it. You will want a really close belay here - there is a ledge with a flake below you, and the climbing is very insecure. Above this the climbing is fairly easy, but you feel like you are way up there.