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The Crimpfest Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better Rad than Trad S 
Crimpfest S 
Crocodile Rock S 
Dave's Dilemma T,S 
Deceptive Slab S 
Drill Sergeant S 
Easy Does It S 
Entourage, The S 
File Drawer S 
InterGalactic Fungus Pull S 
Middle Parallel Space S 
Planet Gnarler S 
Poser Free Zone S 
Right Parallel Space S 
Season Opener S 
Stooner's Highway S 
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Poser Free Zone 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson and Tom Hanson, 1997
Page Views: 571
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is a flat out, dyno-mite route with a bit of historical conflict. Bolts 3 and 4 allow the climber to move rightish or straight up. Straight up seems a bit harder and is very thin. I thought the route to be continuously difficult with several 11d scale moves. Hard at the beginning and hard at the top, it is a classic crimpfest.

Protection 

Lots of QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. This is a long route, so bring 16-18 QDs.


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By slim
Administrator
Oct 9, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a great route and really caters to more of a bouldering style of climber. 3 hard sections with 100% rest before the hard climbing. It took me a long time to figure out the 3rd crux, just above the midway anchor. It seems impossible until you do it, and then you still kind of don't know how you did it. You will want a really close belay here - there is a ledge with a flake below you, and the climbing is very insecure. Above this the climbing is fairly easy, but you feel like you are way up there.
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