Apr 2, 2013
Rocha de Pena has topo in the cafe. The town is so small it's more like 5 buildings so it's obvious who has the beta. It's just posted on his wall & no need to buy anything if you don't want. Word on the street is that the grumpy old man who runs the cafe bolted most of the routes but he doesn't want his "rocha" to become an international destination. He won't speak any english and claims to know nothing of the routes. But he does have all the info so it's necessary to stop in & he was more than happy to let us look & take photos. Bring a camera & take photos of the crags' topo before hiking up to the rocks. Rocha has about 9 "crags" with 12 - 15 routes per section. It's nice, but the climbs are short. Bolts are in good shape with some glueins and many new routes within the last few years. Don't expect to see other climbers except on weekends where you may see 2 -3 parties. BEAUTIFUL and if you want to sport climb, it's the most concentrated area in portugal.
Sagres: beta is in a restaurant on the main street on the side across from the water. It's on a corner & the front of the building is yellow and has two camels painted on the facade. Note: closed mondays. If you can't find it among the 20 or so buildings, ask in the tourism booth where the camels are. This beta is a whole book, photos, routes, everything except direction on how to get to the crags! Dude who owns restaurant is a climber & will pal up with people to show them around for free. IF he's around. I've met a few people who went all the way to Sagres who never could find any climbing. I think with the new 9a put up that was advertised in rock & ice might help increase the quality & availability of info. Climbing is not actually in Sagres, but that's where the info is. You have to go north a bit to get away from the super rough waves on the west side coming from the atlantic. Don't go south as the rock is cruddy. Both DWS & sport available.
Sintra is the best bouldering!!! There are also sea cliffs but you MUST boulder here! Sintra & Cascais (pronounced cash-cash) are virtually next to each other. Look for partners (to show you around) & beta on 8a.nu. Unlike sagres or rocha, people climb around here regularly. I'd go to a popular boulder and pal up with other climbers.
Sintra has the best boulders in Iberia next to the red sandstone at alburracin in spain. Third place would be El Cogul also in Spain especially because of the ancient cave paintings you can climb next to.
Inland in Portugal is Pedra du Ursa near Covilha. It rains a lot here & the bouldering is mediocre. Not worth the effort unless it's en route.
Most likely to actually get some pitches in: Rocha de Pena. easy, direct, no guesswork.
Closest to "tourism" crap is Sintra. Be careful in SIntra as your car WILL be broken into if anything is visible. Again, these boulders are freaking great! (the MP beta on this section says it's mediocre at best, but this guy apparently takes life for granted). I mean, it's not the buttermilks, but you're in Portugal!
Sintra is also only 30km from Lisbon, where you'll likely fly into.
Portugal would be a third world country if it weren't located in EU, so I'd suggest brushing up on some portugese just to be polite. (thank you = obrigado/a)
most of all, HAVE FUN!