Portly Gentleman's Route
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Ultra classic hard trad route!
Short handcrack splitter to some juggy steep stuff, and then a steeper thin hands and finger crack in a corner. Stemming will help you save juice for later; you'll need it! There is a fixed piece at the top of this dihedral. From here, hand traverse out a very airy ledge to an awkward heel-toe stance below the final headwall. Set a bomber piece (or two), and pray that your v-bouldering skills are up to par for the crux headwall's amazing combination of tips locks and sidepull slaps. Two-bolt anchor.
One of the first routes you walk under approaching the Orchard Wall from downstream end.
hands to tiny. Extra red camalots worked very well for me throughout this climb. Option of a wide piece (#4) in the horizontal at the roof.