Portly Gentleman's Route  5.12c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Season:  morning shade, afternoon sun, best in spring and fall. Submitted By:  camhead on Apr 5, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Ultra classic hard trad route!

Short handcrack splitter to some juggy steep stuff, and then a steeper thin hands and finger crack in a corner. Stemming will help you save juice for later; you'll need it! There is a fixed piece at the top of this dihedral. From here, hand traverse out a very airy ledge to an awkward heel-toe stance below the final headwall. Set a bomber piece (or two), and pray that your v-bouldering skills are up to par for the crux headwall's amazing combination of tips locks and sidepull slaps. Two-bolt anchor.

Location 

One of the first routes you walk under approaching the Orchard Wall from downstream end.

Protection 

hands to tiny. Extra red camalots worked very well for me throughout this climb. Option of a wide piece (#4) in the horizontal at the roof.