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The Jurassic Coast of South Dorset is home to a wealth of rock climbing, with something to suit almost everyone - as long as you like limestone! Portland is one of England's best sport climbing areas, Swanage offers intimidating trad, and the area around Lulworth some excellent deep water soloing.
From London, the M3 gets you as far as Southampton. Continue towards Bournemouth on the A31. For Lulworth and Swanage, pass through Poole then Wareham, from which both should be signposted. Portland is a bit further West: the A31 then A35 lead to Dorchester, at which you take the A354 South to Weymouth and finally across the causeway onto Portland itself.
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Featured Route For Dorset
Pregnant Pause 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Blacknor Central
The biggest arete on the island, excellent climb. There's a finger crack half way up, and one can stay on one face of the arete, but the rock is very sharp, and it's probably more fun to use both sides of the arete....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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