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Dorset

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Lulworth Cove Areas 
Portland 

Dorset  


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Location: 50.65406, -2.24978 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,439
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 8, 2012
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Misty morning at Blacknor South.

Description 

The Jurassic Coast of South Dorset is home to a wealth of rock climbing, with something to suit almost everyone - as long as you like limestone! Portland is one of England's best sport climbing areas, Swanage offers intimidating trad, and the area around Lulworth some excellent deep water soloing.

Add to this the pleasant climate (Swanage is supposedly England's sunniest village) and relative proximity to the climbing-starved population centres in London and the South East, and no wonder it is popular. Covering such a large area though, you can still find some peace and quiet in the less accessible areas.

Getting There 

From London, the M3 gets you as far as Southampton. Continue towards Bournemouth on the A31. For Lulworth and Swanage, pass through Poole then Wareham, from which both should be signposted. Portland is a bit further West: the A31 then A35 lead to Dorchester, at which you take the A354 South to Weymouth and finally across the causeway onto Portland itself.

From Bristol, just follow the A37 South to Portland. It's not very far, but can take a long time on smallish roads.

Dorset is quite a long way from the Midlands, and you're probably not even contemplating going there from further North. The best bet from here would be M5 to Bristol then A37.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.2 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Dorset
View of the arete from the bottom of the climb.

Pregnant Pause 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Blacknor Central
The biggest arete on the island, excellent climb. There's a finger crack half way up, and one can stay on one face of the arete, but the rock is very sharp, and it's probably more fun to use both sides of the arete....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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