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portaledge on the nose
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By climber4173
May 4, 2013

I was wondering besides the bivy locations noted on the supertopo where one can put a ledge? Technically at any belay station, I would believe. But it seems unethical/bothersome to put one on route. Maybe not?-If it was the end of the day and everyone was done you could just bivy anywhere.

Chris Mcnamara says to 'ledge on the nose can be good if it's crowded' because you can "bivy anywere". Is my reasoning correct that you just set up your ledge wherever you end up at a belay?

No need to tell me why/why not I need a ledge, just want thoughts on locations/ethics of bivying on-route. Thanks


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By Rob Dillon
May 4, 2013

This would be far from the strangest thing one might encounter on the Nose. Go for it.


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By climber4173
May 6, 2013

anyone?


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By Highlander
From Ouray, CO
May 6, 2013

Just be prepared for NIAD parties giving you an early morning wake up, or late night wake up by climbing over your ledge while you try to sleep.


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By climber4173
May 6, 2013

Are there specific stations that are good to bivy at, or is Mcnamara correct in that you can truly "bivy anywhere"? Thanks.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
May 6, 2013

If you have to ask...


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By Mickey Sensenbach
From San luis obispo CA
May 8, 2013
me at the top of higher spire!

Iv only been up to the top of boot but i can tell you up to there!

you can do it at top of 2

you can do it at top of 7 with 1 bolt and gear but i would recomend going up 15 more feet to the rap route anchors so it is more sheer and 3 bolts

there are high bolts on dolt tower that would be perfect

that is just the "perfect" spots that I encounterd, a lot of the bolts are bay to close to the ledge for a portaledge. I would defentily not say "anywhere" but gives you good options! I also would be weary on anchor quality because when we went up there the typical was just 2 rusty bolts with 1 quick link on each hanger:(


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By Brassmonkey
May 8, 2013
Brass monkey

Fat Dad wrote:
If you have to ask...



Then you are simply trying to inform yourself so you don't make a mistake in the first place. Everyone has to have a first time on everything. Damn elitists, how quickly people forget where they came from.


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By climber4173
May 8, 2013

Thanks for the info Mickey. This is exactly the kind of information I'm looking for. Anyone else? Much appreciated.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
May 8, 2013

Brassmonkey wrote:
Then you are simply trying to inform yourself so you don't make a mistake in the first place. Everyone has to have a first time on everything. Damn elitists, how quickly people forget where they came from.

One, it appeared to be a troll. Two, you get butt hurt really easily for being a metallic object.

To get to the OP's question, people don't really bring ledges on the Nose. Like what's been posted up thread, it can be a zoo and ledges would just contribute to that, despite giving you some flexibility if some Euros decide they want to bivy on the same two person ledge as yo and your partner. It happens.

But the question of 'where to hang it' seems so fundamental that I assumed the OP didn't have the requisite knowledge of how to do the route in the first place. The internet prompts people to publicly ask questions that they probably could have answered themselves with a little investigation or forethought. Specifically, if you are belaying on a wall, are tied into your anchor which your partner is jugging from and you're hauling a bag, you'd assume the anchor is pretty solid (particularly on a trade route like the Nose). What makes you think you couldn't hang a ledge or build an independent one to hang one from?


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By clay meier
May 8, 2013
Thats Me

^^ you seem like a douche


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By Rob Dillon
May 8, 2013

"people don't really bring ledges on the Nose"

Except the ones that do.


Given that the Nose is one of those rare creatures- a route that sees constant traffic of the full range of ability/experience- 'people' do just about everything up there. You might say that 'people' don't really free solo on the Nose, but that's not true. And you might say that 'people' don't really take a week to climb the thing, but some do.

I think what FatDad means to convey is that competent climbers don't really bring ledges on the Nose, and in this he is somewhat accurate. The route has adequate bivy ledges at intervals sufficient for just about any reasonable rate of travel, and so portaledges are deemed unnecessary. But that's not what you asked.


I doubt that the decision to bring or not bring a ledge is often made out of some idea of courtesy. The fact is (and this is what I meant by' far from strangest etc.') that people climbing the Nose should expect a fair amount of traffic, including but not limited to ledges set up any- and everywhere. No one climbing between May and November can reasonably expect to have this route to themselves, and your ledge spanning the corner is just one of the conditions that might define their climb. Fixed gear, the constant smell of piss, passing, being passed, gumby clusterfucks, bailers...if these are things that bother you, pick a different route. This is understood.

Even in the middle of a pitch...stranger things have happened.

Go for it.


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By Rob Dillon
May 8, 2013

Or more succinctly:

unethical? not exactly.

bothersome? perhaps, but it's OK.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
May 8, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

Rob Dillon wrote:
"people don't really bring ledges on the Nose" Except the ones that do. Given that the Nose is one of those rare creatures- a route that sees constant traffic of the full range of ability/experience- 'people' do just about everything up there. You might say that 'people' don't really free solo on the Nose, but that's not true. ....

Really...which people have free soloed the Nose?


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
May 8, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Clay.... you seem like one too....

Bring a ledge, that way you can have that French Dude, who didn't bring anything, sleep down below you.


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By Zac Robinson
From Salt Lake City, UT
May 8, 2013
Me in the Black Canyon.  Checking out a stopper.

csproul wrote:
Really...which people have free soloed the Nose?



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By Ben Sachs
May 8, 2013

People free solo "on" the nose, but even that vid is not a true
"free" solo. A solo yes, but not entirely free


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
May 8, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

>
Is that how you "free" climb?


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
May 10, 2013

clay meier wrote:
^^ you seem like a douche


Fat Dad is duche


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
May 11, 2013

For what it is worth, I have climbed nine walls in Yosemite, including the Nose, and if I went up the Nose again I would bring a ledge. This is why:

1. It provides enhanced weather protection (with a fly). The weather in Yosemite can turn to shit very quickly and if it does your situation can become quite serious quite fast. With a ledge and fly it will be a bit less serious.

2. It allows you to bivy anywhere. There are ledges on the Nose, but the upper ledges (Camp VI if I recall) kind of suck, and the ledges can be crowded at times leaving you little room.

3. A portaledge allows you to make your own schedule. Many parties stroll up to El Cap Tower at midnight because they were moving too slow but had no ledge and thus no place to sleep. Well, if you get stuck climbing in the dark not only will it suck ass but moreover you might get stuck in a cycle where you are used to staying up at night and thus you sleep in too much in the morning and loose day time, or you get up early but you are slow and inefficient because you did not have enough sleep. In short, climb during the day and not at night.

4. If you are counterbalance space hauling, which you should be, and your total pig weight is less than you weigh, the difference in weight between a ledge and no ledge won’t be overly huge unless you are bringing the 20 lb. BD ledge.

5. I would only bring a ledge if I was planing on spending a full three nights on the route. If you were trying to do it in two days, then obviously a ledge would not be the way to go.

Regarding the statement of sleeping anywhere, you absolutely cannot sleep anywhere (without a ledge). The route is near-vertical or dead-vertical the entire way. If I recall right, there are about four pitches with ledges large enough to reasonably sleep on. Without a ledge you are forced to make those ledges which is where the statement about hitting El Cap Tower at midnight came from.


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
May 12, 2013

that was a great movie, I've never seen it.
Who was the climber?


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
May 12, 2013

bergbryce wrote:
that was a great movie, I've never seen it. Who was the climber?


Dean Potter


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By Tank Evans
May 12, 2013
The TANK!!!

Dont bring a ledge. Yes it is bothersome, yes people will give you shit about it, but no your not in the wrong by bringing it. The real reason not to bring a ledge is you simply don't need it. If people are at the bivies, just keep climbing, your not going to die from exposure on the Nose in spring/summer. If its your first wall, which it sounds like it is, the portaledge will just be one more piece of junk to what will surely already be a total junk show (I know I was my first time). The weather in yosemite is very stable, not sure what that other dude is talking about, its got by far the best weather of any big wall destination. Afternoon thunderstorms are about it, and you wont get your fly and ledge up in time anyways.


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
May 12, 2013
Edge of a Dream

Does anyone think it's worth hauling a light single ledge just in case (around 10-12 LBS) to avoid the aforementioned scenarios (over crowded ledges). I plan on doing this in the fall in a party of three and want to go as light as possible, but also don't want to share a bivy ledge with an uncomfortable number of folks. I figured we could set up a portaledge around a bivy ledge in case of overcrowding. Also, will a single ledge sleep two in a pinch?


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
May 12, 2013

Tank Evans wrote:
The weather in yosemite is very stable, not sure what that other dude is talking about, its got by far the best weather of any big wall destination.

I would say the weather is semi-stable at times. Yosemite does have the best weather of any wall-climbing area, but best and perfect are not the same thing. In Yosemite, I have climbed in 80 degree weather one day to find it was snowing 48 hours later. I have also gone up the WC without a cloud in the sky to find it rained all of the next day despite a favorable weather report.






As far as the single goes, you can sleep two in a pinch, but you will be on top of each other or on your side the whole time. The Metolius single, which is one of the larger singles out there, has about 28" of usable width. I would suggest taping two lines, 28" apart, on the ground and seeing how well you can get two people to fit in between the lines. That should answer your question.


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