Pornucopia  5.12

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Team Sofa King Diesel New Route:  Yes Season:  fall, winter, spring Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Sep 16, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Blank face, thin holds, good times...!

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Description 

Pornucopia climbs the blank pane of rock between Contender Direct and Contender, joining both climbs for the upper face to the anchor. It has three new bolts of climbing and links into Contender for your fourth clip.

Pull on and move to a good rail, clip, bust into thin holds and stretch high for the second clip and move into the biz. A flat hold out right lets you clip the third bolt, then power up on better edges as you join Contender. I clipped the bolt on Contender as my fourth clip, then moved left where you can put a good Metolius black or red in a horizontal then unclip the bolt. Bust up on layback jugs, reel left along the rail and then climb the last two bolts of the Contender routes to finish on a semi-loose ledge with a relic Leeper-hanger anchor.

This is good, thin, old-school face climbing. Bring a pair of Megas and lycra tights. Shade after 4 p.m., best on cold days.

Location 

This goes up the middle of the Arena/Contender Wall.

Protection 

Five/six bolts plus Metolius black (#5) or red (#4).

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Get your porn on...route moves left above block/le...