Dan Mottinger moving past some "runouts" up to the...
This is a relatively undeveloped cliff that doesn't see much traffic on the West Rim. There are only five documented routes at this cliff in Hanson's guidebook and for good reason--most of the rock is crumbly, discontinuous, or short. A few trad leads and two sport routes offer the true Castlewood aficionado one more isolated crag. Beware in the spring/summer of thick patches of poison ivy.
This cliff is the southern most bit of rock on the West Rim, just West of the old dam ruins. It can be accessed from either the southern or northern park entrance.
From the North park entrance, park in the farthest south lot (next to the Cave Trail) and take the Creek Bottom Trail along the Cherry Creek all the way to the dam ruins. Take the dam trail past some dam steps to the top of the dam. Do not walk out on the dam. Take another trail away from the dam (which is currently closed for revegetation, but there's no other way to get to the wall, since walking on the road is also prohibited). Hike away (West) from the dam (damn I like saying that :-) and 30m North on the road to a semi clearing in the brush. Hike up to the most prominant looking section of rock.
From the South park entrance, take the Lake Gulch Trail (North) from the parking lot and down the cliff. You'll pass South Canyon Point on your right as the trail continues around the base of the cliffs. The trail will eventually intersect the Inner Canyon Trail near the creek. Take the IC trail North up to the dam ruins and up to the cliffs as described in the other approach.
As you approach Porky's Wall, look for the tallest east-facing wall, which is slightly red in color and filled with many pockets and large cobbles. A chimney system is around the corner to the left of this face. The first bolt is about 20ft off the deck, but easy ramps lead up to it. The first clip is not a trivial clip, however, since a few thin moves must be made to reach it. It is a little runout to the second bolt. Angle up and left past a short finger crack to a horizontal crack below ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO