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Contest Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Porkus Non Grata 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 970
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Description 

This route is on Contest Wall, the left side of Sand Gulch. It ascends a blunt arete near the beginning of the wall, a large block which makes a great belay lounger with the right padding sits just below the climb. A good route with technical and continous moves.

Protection 

6 bolts plus 2 bold anchor.

Location 

Per Jason Halladay: The route is on the south end of Contest Wall (west side of canyon). It starts directly above a nice, huge belay boulder. Look for an old hangerless bolt on top of the boulder and a bolt and hanger on the uphill end of the boulder at ground level for belaying. The route is right above this boulder.


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By Lyle Monzyk
Oct 12, 2001

This is a superb route. Technical and sustained moves throuhout on good pockets with long reaches. For a 10+ this is a must do climb!! It deserves three stars.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A way-fun bouldery start with two great pockets for hands gets you off the ground past the undercut start to a high first bolt. From there, it's climbing on an improbable-looking, smooth face with good edges to a some steep but nicely-pocketed moves above to sharp rock to the finish.

The route is on the south end of Contest Wall (west side of canyon). It starts directly above a nice, huge belay boulder. Look for an old hangerless bolt on top of the boulder and a bolt and hanger on the uphill end of the boulder at ground level for belaying. The route is right above this boulder.

7(?) bolts to a bolted anchor. The anchor setup is a bit awkward with one high bolt and one low bolt, but it works.

This is one of my favorite routes at Shelf yet. It's got nice variety with a puzzling crux going from the fourth to fifth bolt that's fun once figured out.
By Allison Fritz
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Nov 13, 2007

I have added this route as a favorite at Shelf, also. From a first look, the route looked difficult but as I started climbing, nice ledges and pockets appeared. I enjoyed the start.
By Bal Rau
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 10, 2011

Are you supposed to start this from the ground or from the boulder? It seemed way harder than 10d either way.