||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Tom Gilge, Eric Decaria or Kevin Chase|
|Season: ||Year round, shaded in am, sunny in pm.|
|Page Views: ||500|
|Submitted By: ||Greg D on May 14, 2012|
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Me at the anchor. Gretty in the dihedral. This pho...
This is one of the best routes at the parlor yet one of the least climbed, probably because of a slightly dicey start and misinformation in guidebooks. It is quite varied and interesting on mostly good rock. There is face, crack, stemming, jambing and even a tiny roof. Mantle up some not so great rock below a single bolt that is about 15' above the ledge. There is a solid horizontal crack that will take a 1.5" piece if you like at this point. Then climb to the bolt and decipher how to get into the corner to your right . Then, climb straight up another 80 feet staying in the corner and cracks. Pull over a small roof. Then, twenty feet of easier but loose and unprotectable rock to a two bolt anchor. There is a bolt on the last 30 feet of easy climbing. Skip this bolt as it was unfortunately put in by the FA of Linda's Way next door.
To access this route walk the ledge that starts below RP City all the way to its end. Use caution as you will be 20 feet above the ground at this point. There is no good options to anchor you belayer, so you should be solid getting to your first piece or two. A few moves of 5.8 or so. Alternately, you could have your belayer stay on the ground and only the leader walks the ledge to the start. That way if you blow it, you don't take your partner with you!
Beware of your rope length when rapping. A 60 meter will just barely reach the starting ledge but will not reach the ground.
Single set of cams to 3 including some micros. Set of small to medium nuts.
By Greg D
May 14, 2012
This route has been incorrectly listed in some guide books as RP City and I called it "not rp city" in my topo because the name was unknown at the time.
Sep 6, 2012
Actually this route is Pork Soda, info given to me from Tom Gilje via the Prez.