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The Wall of Voodoo
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Porch Monkey S 
Sufferin' Succotash S 
Voodoo Child S 

Porch Monkey 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chip Ruckgraber, Steve Sangdahl, 1988
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: Willie Mein on Jun 12, 2002

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Description 

Porch Monkey is an excellent jug fest up the steepest part of The Wall of Voodoo, 15 feet to the left of the steep corner Voodoo Child.

Start up the easy slab (with a bolt) before launching up the overhanging wall. With many big moves on jugs, this route will get you pumped. The bolts are well placed, with a three bolt anchor that will get you back to the ground with one 50m rope.

Although an excellent route, this short and sweet line does have some crumbly rock. A belayer may want to consider using a helmet.

Rolofson's sport climbing guide to Boulder Canyon rates this route 12b/c, however, it is much easier at about 12a/b.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor w/ rings and a chain.



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By Dan Green
Jun 18, 2002

I agree. This route is 12a/b and really fun. The first three clips are a jug haul to a small roof. Then you move left and reach up for this crack (this is the part that I felt was the crux) , rock up on the lip and you're in a great position to rest. Then you crank through a couple more moves and out to your left is this killer hold that if you get it right, you get another massive rest. The rest of the climbing is straightforward and fun. I think this route definitely gets 3 stars.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jun 30, 2002

Porch Monkey is actually 15 to 20 feet right of Voodoo Child. steve s.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 17, 2005

It seems as if Boulder climbers are insecure with grades. Porch Monkey would hold the 12b/c grade in Rifle (which is a warm-up there if you were not aware), so if climbing at this grade is a big deal to you then live it up, and yes you will be able to climb practically every 12b in Rifle if you can climb Porch Monkey (have fun waiting in line with all the other dolts!).

By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Oct 31, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This felt 12b/c to me as well. It's listed as this in both guidebooks. When you compare this route to the other route a 12a/b in the guide, this route is significantly harder. Also I don't think Dan climbed this, what rests are you talking about and what crack do you grab, doesn't sound like the same route to me. It sounds like the route down the hill that starts on a ledge.