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Yak Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beckey route/Speedway T 
CardiYak Rhythm T 
East Face Cracks T 
Hole in My Heaven T 
Madness T 
Porcelain Chicken T 
Reality Check T 
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 
Southwest Gully T 
West Ridge T 
Yak Check T 
Yak Crack T 

Porcelain Chicken 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J. Bennetto, R. Cox 1985
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: Dru on Aug 14, 2009

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Description 

This route climbs the most prominent, central dihedral on the SE face of Yak, between HimH and Madness, to a large blocky ledge at about the level of the base of Yak Crack's upper dihedral and about 150 feet below the top of the face.

The climbing is up to 5.8+, with some wide cracks (bring large cams) and some thin climbing (bring knifeblades and a hammer). Gain the dihedral from the right by scrambling quite a ways up the descent trail and cutting hard left on a ledge that leads to the base of the dihedral. climb 8 pitches to the high ledge. The original ascent retreated from here but the Madness finish can be used (loose 5.9).

Location 

The most obvious and longest continuous central dihedral on the SE face.

Protection 

Gear to 4" plus thin pitons.


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