Climb up a boulder to a large, right-facing, conglomerated flake from hell. Head to the top of the flake, then up the overhanging, right-leaning finger crack. Finish up the overhanging face to anchors at the top.
Left side of the left-most section of the Sun Wall. On the left side of the "amphitheater" that Misty is in.
fists to fingers, bolts and rings at the top
TR is on Popular Science, leader is on Ale 81, San...
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 2, 2012
Not recommended for the 5.9 leader. The last few moves to the anchors requires you to place a piece of gear from a near horizontal position. This I believe would be way too strenuous for someone new at the grade. A fall from below the anchor could result in a ledge fall or a wicked pendulum.
|By Br'er Rabbit|
From: The Briar Patch
Jan 21, 2013
Protect as high as you can reach from the last good stance above the ledge (hint...stem up another few feet). Clip short then run for the top. Avoids the last placement from a terrible position and just might keep you off the ledge if you don't get the anchors clipped. A large stopper works well for this. Top out for full value.