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Popular Demand 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,226
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 29, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Popular Demand at the Wasteland, Rifle.

Description 

This is the easiest route at the Wasteland and the furthest left. It's basically a 5.10 version of Community Service with slightly sketchier rock, but it makes for a decent outing nevertheless.

While the bolt line punches straight up, you're better off either staying slightly to the left or the right most of the way. At the last couple of bolts, you can either stay right in a funky corner or move left onto the face, which is crimpy and slightly harder.

This route has cleaned up pretty well over time, but it used to be very loose. I was climbing this route during a super-wet spell in 1997 when a TV-sized block about 15 feet to my left spontaneously detached and almost killed my belayer. Maybe the vibrations from my shitty footwork cut it loose -- I'll never know.

Anyway, just an anecdote to prove once again that stuff can and does fall off the walls at Rifle (as if the giant blocks that occasionally nail the road near the Project Wall weren't warning enough!).


Protection 

10 draws or so.



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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 14, 2001

This route won't ever get called 5.9.

By Tom C
Apr 26, 2006

10a. 9- for Rifle. A stellar moderate line 3 stars for sure on this journey of a climb that moves from dihedrals to cracks to face.

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Jul 3, 2007

This line would be much better if you didn't have to risk ground fall at the third bolt. Also, it felt like I was always climbing too far to one side of the bolts. If bolted better, this line could be as good as PMS and PMT.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jun 14, 2010

I would also agree Aeon. If this route were ever to be rebolted, the bolts could be moved left for the 5.10 route and then a line established using part of this route that runs on the right & with some perhaps closer bolting at the 30' level afford a 5.11 route that would be pretty good.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 22, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This route was rebolted today as part of the Rifle Cleanup, it should now be much more enjoyable.

By Pascal Ripoche
From: Pittsburgh PA
Mar 4, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

As it stands now, I felt secure all the way up with some nice moves from crack to face to corner.