By Puzman
Apr 18, 2011
| So I took my first lead fall on gear this past Saturday. I've been climbing for 18 years, and have been leading on and off for more than half of that, but I've only recently begun to push my limits on lead a bit (i.e. breaking into 5.5s at the Gunks, where I can follow 5.7-8 with some hanging and swearing). Anyway, I was climbing Dennis (5.5 G) which like a lot of Gunks routes feels harder than the grade would suggest. The crux overhang is about 15-20' off the ground (not a good place to fall), but protects well. It was very cold and windy out (couldn't feel my hands or feet very well), had recently gotten over a cold (I know, excuses, excuses...), and I just couldn't pull the move. I torched out, yelled to my belayer to take, and popped off onto a bomber #2 Camalot. My partner Mike made a great catch, I caught nothing but air, and ended up a few feet off the ground. It actually felt pretty anti-climactic after the initial terror of falling- no worse for the wear, and I want to go back and try it when its warm and sunny. I guess you never know how good your pro is until you actually fall on it, but its very reassuring to get over this hurdle, not get hurt, and know that your pro can actually stop a fall! | 
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By Justin Brunson
From Broomfield CO
Apr 18, 2011
| 18 years... you are a champion of abstinence.
sounds like a pretty fun whip! |
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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Apr 18, 2011
| Puzman wrote: The crux overhang is about 15-20' off the ground (not a good place to fall), but protects well.
In Colorado, falling on 5.5 means the potential to hit something on the way down. Hope I can make it to the Gunks some day to try it out.
Congratulations! |
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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Apr 18, 2011
| Rick Blair wrote: In Colorado, falling on 5.5 means the potential to hit something on the way down. Hope I can make it to the Gunks some day to try it out. Congratulations!
Yeah, but this move is quite overhanging and, although the route is probably a solid Gunks 5.5, this move is pretty stiff.
I have never taken a lead fall, but I am also a new climber. I am glad to hear you came out of it unscathed. Man, still sends a panic through my belly just thinking about it.
Were you Around Sunday, Puzman? The weather was pretty bad, and I climbed (not led) Apoplexy for the first time. Sucker was totally wet all over the crux. Interesting day :) |
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By Puzman
Apr 18, 2011
| Alicia Sokolowski wrote: Were you Around Sunday, Puzman? The weather was pretty bad, and I climbed (not led) Apoplexy for the first time. Sucker was totally wet all over the crux. Interesting day :)
Hey Alicia,
No, just there on Saturday. Pretty nasty conditions (low 40's, VERY windy) though we finished rapping off Dennis just as it started to rain. My feet felt like wood- jamming my feet into shoes that were fitted for bare feet while wearing thick merino socks may not have helped! More insulation but less circulation! Haven't been on Apoplexy- how was that?
Cheers,
John |
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By Woodchuck ATC
Apr 18, 2011
| Rick Blair wrote: In Colorado, falling on 5.5 means the potential to hit something on the way down. Hope I can make it to the Gunks some day to try it out. Congratulations!
I think just about every Gunks route(even the 5.4-5 ones) has at least one roof to go over. Sometimes several bomber ones for those low grades. You should get there cuz you will love doing trad on those scenic routes. |
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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Apr 18, 2011
| Woodchuck ATC wrote: I think just about every Gunks route(even the 5.4-5 ones) has at least one roof to go over. Sometimes several bomber ones for those low grades. You should get there cuz you will love doing trad on those scenic routes.
I don't recall seeing any routes out here with a roof lower than 5.7. Are those Gunks routes really 5.5 or just sandbagged like a mofo? |
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By Walt Barker
From AZ
Apr 18, 2011
| Welcome!....kudos to your belayer also...I blew a clip on a sport route once and was reeeeeally thankful my belayer was on top of things.. |
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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Apr 18, 2011
| Rick Blair wrote: I don't recall seeing any routes out here with a roof lower than 5.7. Are those Gunks routes really 5.5 or just sandbagged like a mofo?
Wow, if you are willing to include 5.6's, the Gunks has tons of roofs at that range. Shockley's Ceiling and High Exposure immediately leap to mind. Check out the photos. They will not disappoint.
As for your question on ratings, I have been to places where I felt the ratings were certainly softer. The Gunks features overhanging 5.4s and 5.5 with actual roofs. I have heard many a person say the Gunks are sandbagged, but I wouldn't say I have climbed enough different crags to judge.
Sounds like a good reason for you to come check it out!!!! |
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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Apr 18, 2011
| Puzman wrote: Hey Alicia, No, just there on Saturday. Pretty nasty conditions (low 40's, VERY windy) though we finished rapping off Dennis just as it started to rain. My feet felt like wood- jamming my feet into shoes that were fitted for bare feet while wearing thick merino socks may not have helped! More insulation but less circulation! Haven't been on Apoplexy- how was that? Cheers, John
I wanted to come out Saturday, but I was too much a wimp to face the cold. It was so windy!!! You are a freaking iron man. It was warmer Sunday (though wet) and I had to put a hand warmer in my chalk bag. By the way, that totally helps :)
I HIGHLY recommend climbing Apoplexy. It is amazingly sustained. Move after move right at the 5.9 level, but overall really accessible. It is really varied climbing, a good layback, a roof, some really balancey moves under that roof. I have trouble with plenty of 5.8s in the Gunks because they have one move that is just insanely hard then a bunch of 5.7. This is really nicely sustained.
That said, I wouldn't want to lead it. I am nowhere near that level in leading. Honestly, I would probably back down from Dennis because I would be scared of that roof right off the deck. I only lead in the Bunny/Belly Roll level right now.
You should say hi sometime we are both going to be at the cliff. |
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By Jim Sweeney
Apr 18, 2011
| | Start of Dennis
Submitted By: Jim Sweeney on Apr 18, 2011
|
This is the start, the crux is up to her left, just at the top of this frame. |
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By JohnWesely
From Athens, GA
Apr 18, 2011
| Jim Sweeney wrote: This is the start, the crux is up to her left, just at the top of this frame.
I think that may be a record for the smallest picture on Mountain Project Jim. How have you been? |
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By Jim Sweeney
Apr 18, 2011
| Yes John, I'm a photo posting feeb. Get the picture!
I figured it was better than making everyone go to the route description to see it.
I'll be doing a lot better myself when I get my newly resoled shoes back and head to The Land of Horizontal Handholds.
You coming up this way again anytime soon?
Jim
|
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By Woodchuck ATC
Apr 18, 2011
| Jim Sweeney wrote: This is the start, the crux is up to her left, just at the top of this frame.
Yes, this is a typical small 'roof' that is encountered on lower grade routes in the Gunks. I didn't say they were massive, just that they are there and they are really fun to climb. |
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By MojoMonkey
Apr 18, 2011
| JohnWesely wrote: I think that may be a record for the smallest picture on Mountain Project Jim. How have you been?
Maybe this is a little easier to see:
| Tricia at the start. (photo by Dave Merle)
Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on May 7, 2008
|
And more fun 5.5 overhangs on its nearby neighbor, Jackie:
| Dede pulling the roof on P1...
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006
| |
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By Jim Sweeney
Apr 18, 2011
| Fun they are, chuck, and they don't need to be massive. With the bulge just above the overhang on the start it gets your attention right away.
Howza bout this one Drunkards Delight
Great. So easy a monkey can do it. |
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By Ice4life
From SLC, UT
Apr 18, 2011
| Gunks- the only place you can get 5.2 overhangs...
Yeah yeah, they might be easy and bomber, well protected yadah yadah, but its still an overhang at 5.2
referring to Easy O |
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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Apr 19, 2011
| Jeebus, 18 years!?
My first real fall on trad gear was actually a great thing for me. It was very sudden and very un-expected and the gear did exactly as it was supposed to. It ended up giving me a lot more confidence in my gear and realizing that if I follow my basic rules of leading on trad, I should be all right.
It was apparently a bad looking fall as I heard a girl scream two or three climbs over before the rope came taught!
I'd also love to climb at the Gunks, I've heard much about the overhanging 5.4s. |
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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 19, 2011
| No one seems to say this anymore around here but...
Yer gonna die!!!! |
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By Brent Butcher
Apr 19, 2011
| bergbryce wrote: Jeebus, 18 years!? My first real fall on trad gear was actually a great thing for me. It was very sudden and very un-expected and the gear did exactly as it was supposed to. It ended up giving me a lot more confidence in my gear and realizing that if I follow my basic rules of leading on trad, I should be all right. It was apparently a bad looking fall as I heard a girl scream two or three climbs over before the rope came taught! I'd also love to climb at the Gunks, I've heard much about the overhanging 5.4s.
x2 on everything he just said (minus a girl screaming on my fall). |
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By Puzman
Apr 19, 2011
| Stich wrote: No one seems to say this anymore around here but... Yer gonna die!!!!
Hey, we're all gonna die, the only questions are when and how... |
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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Apr 19, 2011
| Puzman wrote: Hey, we're all gonna die, the only questions are when and how...
+1 - so true |
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By tomde01
From 10510
Apr 19, 2011
| Alicia Sokolowski wrote: +1 - so true
after all without death life no meaning |
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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 19, 2011
| No thread is complete without the utterance of "Yer gonna die!!!!"
One thing we all have in common is we're all going to be dead in a few short years.
So go forth and DIE!!!!11111 |
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By john strand
From southern colo
Apr 19, 2011
| Next up you really should fall off High E ! The Gunks have TONS of routes to fall off of.... Unless the pins rip |
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By Phil Lauffen
From Louyuppie
Apr 19, 2011
| 18 years and 1 lead fall??!?! I probably log 18 falls every year(at least).
Clearly you aren't climbing anywhere near your ability level.
It is good to know the gear holds, huh?! You should start really pushing yourself on easily protected climbs. Don't be scared of the fall! |
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