Pope's Crack, Direct Finish 5.10b/c
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| Type: | Trad, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, February 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Bob Gaines on Feb 25, 2010 |
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Jared Vagy on the direct finish.
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Description An exciting finish that makes a classic route even more classic.
Climb the crack straight up to the big roof, then climb out the right side of the roof past a fixed pin and a bolt. At the lip of the roof, reach right to a good hold. Once you're over the roof, it's 30 feet of class 4 slab to the top.
The overhang is well protected and much easier than it looks!
Protection Pro to 3 inches.
BETA PHOTO: Pope's Crack, Direct Finish
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BETA PHOTO: Pope's Crack, Direct Finish
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Cody Dolnick on the Direct finish to Pope's Crack.
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| Comments on Pope's Crack, Direct Finish |
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By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Feb 28, 2010
| Whoa, I did regular Pope's Crack probably only days after you guys put this up. When I got to the traverse I looked up and saw a pin and bolt wondered "where does that go?" Had I known it was only .10a I would have gone for it. Good job. |
By Will Conley
Nov 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| I did this this weekend (2010-11-27), and I thought it was really fun. I hadn't heard about it, but we met some guys at the base of the route who had read about it here. I agree with Bob's assessment that the roof is well protected and not as hard as it looks. The bolt is in the perfect place: it's easy to reach from below, and it's at your waist when you're pulling the crux. Kudos Bob. The crux might be a little reachy, though. My climbing partner is 5'5", and she had a little difficulty reaching the good hold out right. A few guys who did it after us had a little trouble also. |
By Simon Hatfield
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 9, 2011
| Far better than the traditional finish, this limits ropedrag and I feel is more aesthetic. The roof looks quite improbable, but the rating is right on.
Descent Beta: Belay in the crack above a yucca off of cams, then scramble (3rd Class) to the rap anchors above British Airways, climbers right of Pope's. |
By Richard Shore
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.10
| A beautiful finish and a total change in character from the rest of Pope's Crack. I thought the moves over the roof to be kinda stout on OK holds. My shorter partner (5'4"?) really struggled making the reach to the slopey jug at the lip. |
By Phil Esra
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| yup, reachy at 5'6". safe and fun--makes the old finish obsolete. might not be as hard as it looks, but... hard enough. |
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