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 ADVANCED
Central Reservation Climbs
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Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 
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Whale, NE Arete, The T 
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Pope (Supreme Being) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A1+ PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 330', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A1+ [details]
FA: old guys
New Route: Yes
Season: closed
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 30, 2007

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21 years old

Closed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

p1 starts on ramp and climbs chimney (5.8, 90'). p2 traverses 35' (5.5) and then up (A.0, 10') to ancient bird nest (with egg shells and mice bones). p3, 1" crack leads to twin "seams to 1 1/2" " to belay (A.1, 110'). p4 climbs 1" crack to roof (very awkward A.1+) then more A.1+ and mixed free loose chimney moves to summit.

One hole (angle) was drilled to direct summit raps to NW side. Other belays are clean w/ fixed pins.

Location 

NW face of tower, the analog of Primal Yawn. Raps (CRITICAL INFO) from summit, R1) 140' and one line end must be tied in as you are 10' in space. R2, 110' to bird nest, R3 140' to ground (you do not return to starting ramp)

Protection 

Triple camming units smallest to 1 1/2, doubles to 4", one #5 & #6. Ball nuts (2 sets) very helpful. 2 LA's, 2 KB's, 1 ea. angle to 3/4"


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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Oct 1, 2007

Too cool. Way top go! What an adventure! Bravo! And that little gumby fellow was probably glad to see anyone after all those years...