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California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Placerville
> Cosumnes River…
> Bucks Bar Dome
> Main Area
Popcorn
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 2.1 from 15
votes
Routes in Main Area
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Adhesion TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bat Crack Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bat Crack Right TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bat Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bat Roof Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Beginner's Cracks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Candy Corn Boulder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fingerprint TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fly or Die TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Great Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Khazad Arete T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Parmesan Prints TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Popcorn T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Rotten Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rotten Face (Chimney Var.) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeeze Cheeze TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Test Piece T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Triscuit Rock TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unconquerable T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unconquerable Tunnel Through T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,789 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Rezucha on Dec 3, 2005 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
After mounting the Candy Corn Boulder you will be standing beneath two obvious large knobs on a steep face with a ramp/large flake on your right. Not using the ramp, mantle the knobs and continue straight up on smaller knobs. Avoid exiting right towards the top which is easier. To make a longer, more moderate route continuing up from the Candy Corn Boulder, use the ramp/large flake to mount the two large knobs and then continue straight up (5.8 or 5.9) or once on knobs, angle right a bit to an obvious large hold to mount the top (5.7). IMHO, this is how the route should be described with the 5.10+ mantle being a variation. Which way was the first ascent done...?
Protection
Popcorn, according to Rock Climbs of Placerville by William H. Cottrell, is the top half of rock above Candy Corn Boulder. Popcorn is usually toproped as the protection is nil up there. There are two bolts as anchors left of Popcorn at the top of Beginner Cracks but these anchors make for a pendulum left if you come off on the face. There may be anchors to trees where long slings would be necessary.
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