Poor Man's Wendego 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Mick Follari, Jim Nigro, 2009 |
| Submitted By: | Mark Roth on Apr 28, 2011 |
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Head up right and turn the corner. The pro is not...
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Description This looks like a mini version of its namesake down on the Rincon Wall, but it is nowhere near as classic. Undercling out the right side of the roof being careful not to slip on lichen. The crux is at the end of the traverse. One more tricky move up and it's over. Cruise easier terrain to the top. The gear is not great on this one.
Location This is on the buttress below the Potato Chip. Near the left side of the rock, left of two trees, but right of the gullies that lead up to the Potato Chip there is a big overhang with a steep slab under it.
Protection SR, tree with slings to get down.
Around the corner on easier ground.
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| Comments on Poor Man's Wendego |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9+ R
| You can place a bomber medium stopper over head before the traverse. After that, the next hold is a flare (no pro) and the one after that is a flake that would questionably hold gear... if you could find a stance to pace it from. I lead through, crossed hands and swung myself around the corner too far above gear to think it could do any good. The move around the corner is at least 9+ and this is certainly R climbing. A few 5.8 moves later you can plunk in gear, now a good distance (do NOT fall) over uneven rocky ground. The climbing suddenly gets easier and the rock gets better and protection frequent enough that it is more or less uninteresting.
This is the only route of the newly published ones not go get a star, and there is a good reason for that- it's a little too exciting, then a little too boring, and all the while, relatively unaesthetic. |
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
May 28, 2011
| Tony, sorry if I lured you onto this by posting it.... Yeah, not the greatest route. If there was a flat ground landing, the route could be soloed as an easy boulder problem. Not a great idea with that jagged talus and the insecure lichen smearing.... |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9+ R
| Mark,
No culpability on your part- I was born a choss-jockey.
I did it "because it was there." |
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