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Poor man's LS Solution

Original Post
Derek M · · VA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 100

I am climbing a lot less than I used to, so I don't really need the firepower of a $175 shoe. Does anyone have a recommendation for a cheaper Solution substitute? The aspects of the shoe that I care about most are that it is very successful at locking your heel into place and the combination of power/sensitivity that other high end downturned shoes (eg Testarossa) seem to offer.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Not sure they have any left but REI was selling the older Vapors for $100 +/-. I haven't tried the older model but the new mold has an awesome heel, at least for my foot. The new model is $140ish. The Shamans are awesome if they fit your foot and I recall finding somewhere for a reasonable price.

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

I think the edelrid raven was a direct knockoff of the solution if you can find it around. Sierra Trading Post was selling it for around $50 at one point.

kalockwood · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 342

Not a ton cheaper ($154), but I've heard good things about the Butora Acro. New shoe company, from Colorado I think.

butorausa.com/acro-downturn…

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

Butora is actually a Korean company. They just recently came to the US and their distributor may be in Colorado.

I'd highly recommend Tenaya. I've been a Sportiva fan for years and have so far been super stoked on the Tenaya.

Derek M · · VA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 100

Thanks all for the replies. Sadly, it seems like all stocks of the Edelrid Raven have vanished from the earth. It seems to me like there would be a great market for this shoe so I wonder if they didn't get sued for violating some LS patent.

If I wanted to stay high end, I would go with Tenaya, as everyone seems to say their top shoe (Oasis) is better than the Solution, and it would be good to encourage downward price creep at the top end ($165 Tenaya vs $175 LS, which is just silly given strength of the USD).

Evolv's don't really like my toes usually although Shaman can be found for just $120, so I will probably try the Shark which I have found for less than $100.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

Consider buying previously purchased shoes. Awful lot of people buy stuff with good intentions, and barely even open the box. People also just make mistakes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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