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Poor Gym Testing
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By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 3, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

John Wilder wrote:
bingo. which is why the AMGA stopped teaching it years ago. we're talking about belay certs at climbing gyms for people who have little/no belaying experience, not people who have been climbing for a decade or more and caught hundreds/thousands of falls. edit: and the sliding moment is a weak point for the pinch and slide, because the moment when your hand is above the device is the moment of least friction available. this is not to say its impossible to make a catch- its not, but again, with a panicing noob who has had little experience, its a damn dangerous moment.


Agree that up to the chin is terrible position. Masters of this method though, can manage rope with small movements that do not extend the arm up high. Waist to chest, small movements. I'm old school, but still teach noob's to PERFECT this method before allowing them to belay unassisted. yeah, it might take a few outings. To expect someone to master a technique in a 10 min. lesson is unreasonable, even with a grigri in use. Problem is that with the instant gratification of sport climbing and gyms, NOBODY seems patient enough to take the time to learn, master skills and proceed at a slower more responsible rate. Everyone wants to belay 5.l0 leads by their third outing on a rope. Hate to see that happening.


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By EvanH
From Boone, NC
Nov 8, 2012

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
It's a well tested and trusted belay method that allows for complete rope management when using an ATC.


Not really. The pinch-n-slide method is a carryover from the days of Munter Hitch belaying. The Munter is in a brake position when the rope strands are parallel and moving in opposite directions (the "pinch" position), which allows for maximum friction when sliding your hand.

The more modern PBUS method of belaying was developed for plate and tube style devices where the braking plane is actually with the ropes parallel and moving in the same direction ( like this ). This method is by far safer and a better technique for any modern ATC-style device, and even for the GriGri (though PnS works for the GriGri).

PBUS, however, is definitely unsafe for belaying with the Munter.


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