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The popular opinion and the original line differ on this on... From what I've gathered pooh originally traversed left after the first pitch in to what we now call Fun House (5.7), which is historically called Fun House to Pooh... The newest guide book list the direct version of Pooh which is the popular way to do the route these days, this line borrowed from other routes to make a direct line and avoid traffic jams on "Fun House to Pooh"... Any feedback on this history is welcomed...
Pitch one:(5.7+) Start just right of Fun House up the hand/fist crack to a ledge walk right to where there is a large chock stone stuck in the chimney... this is the crux of this pitch, find the hidden holds and it will go at 5.7+ if you don't find the right holds it seems harder... pull up in to the chimney and follow a crack to the belay ledge...Belay from gear...
Pitch 2: (5.8++) This pitch seems very hard for the grade and could be sketchy to fall on due to the ledge below you... I'd say be very careful if you aren't a solid 5.9 leader... Basically do a boulder problem off the ledge to gain a crack that isn't as good as it looks (protect well) then a sandy mantel move on to the "Ballroom ledge"... belay from here on gear...
Pitch 3:(5.8) Step right about 10 feet and up a slightly awkward face/crack section which gets easier as it goes... Until you are scrambling up to the big tree ledge... Belay from trees...
This is a fun climb but id like to be clear that i find the crux stiff in the grade and a bit sketchy if care is not taken to protect from ledge fall...
Just right of the start of Fun House (5.7) look for the chimney choked with a chock stone...
standard rack to #3 cam
|By Galen Rahmlow|
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The chock stone is a great challenge and the crux can be well protected. Well worth it!
|By Jason Denver|
Sep 22, 2012
I thought this was a great alternative to Funhouse. A bit harder, good cracks, and zero crowding. It's fairly clean now and provides a consistent grade up to the big half-way ledge. I'll definitely go back for more! Also I did it in two pitches by combining p2 & p3.