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Pooh 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: L poorman J Cote G Offenhartz 1969
Page Views: 1,797
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Hollywood mantling the first ledge on Pooh.

Description 

The popular opinion and the original line differ on this on... From what I've gathered pooh originally traversed left after the first pitch in to what we now call Fun House (5.7), which is historically called Fun House to Pooh... The newest guide book list the direct version of Pooh which is the popular way to do the route these days, this line borrowed from other routes to make a direct line and avoid traffic jams on "Fun House to Pooh"... Any feedback on this history is welcomed...

Pitch one:(5.7+) Start just right of Fun House up the hand/fist crack to a ledge walk right to where there is a large chock stone stuck in the chimney... this is the crux of this pitch, find the hidden holds and it will go at 5.7+ if you don't find the right holds it seems harder... pull up in to the chimney and follow a crack to the belay ledge...Belay from gear...

Pitch 2: (5.8++) This pitch seems very hard for the grade and could be sketchy to fall on due to the ledge below you... I'd say be very careful if you aren't a solid 5.9 leader... Basically do a boulder problem off the ledge to gain a crack that isn't as good as it looks (protect well) then a sandy mantel move on to the "Ballroom ledge"... belay from here on gear...

Pitch 3:(5.8) Step right about 10 feet and up a slightly awkward face/crack section which gets easier as it goes... Until you are scrambling up to the big tree ledge... Belay from trees...

This is a fun climb but id like to be clear that i find the crux stiff in the grade and a bit sketchy if care is not taken to protect from ledge fall...


Location 

Just right of the start of Fun House (5.7) look for the chimney choked with a chock stone...


Protection 

standard rack to #3 cam



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By Galen Rahmlow
From: Weehawken
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The chock stone is a great challenge and the crux can be well protected. Well worth it!

By Jason Denver
Sep 22, 2012

I thought this was a great alternative to Funhouse. A bit harder, good cracks, and zero crowding. It's fairly clean now and provides a consistent grade up to the big half-way ledge. I'll definitely go back for more! Also I did it in two pitches by combining p2 & p3.

By steve chardon
Jul 19, 2014

We climbed Pooh yesterday as a warmup for The Book of Solemnity. It was clean and enjoyable. However, I would like to reiterate part of Lee's description. Pitch two is very hard for the grade. It is possible to set a good piece before leaving the belay, but this will not prevent hitting the ledge should you fall on the crux. It is necessary to make the crux moves and establish yourself solidly in the crack above before placing your next pro. We finished Pooh and went on to climb the Book. I was doing all the leading and cruised the Book (5.10a) The hardest moves of the day for me were on pitch 2 of Pooh.

By steve chardon
Jul 21, 2014

From what I have recently heard, people often do the first pitch of Pooh and the second pitch of Funhouse; but by Lee's and the new guidebook's description, the second pitch of Pooh is to the right of the second pitch of Funhouse (by 20 feet or so). I found the crux to be very stout for 5.8++ (add pluses as you wish!)

By losbill
Jul 21, 2014

You were on what is traditionally known as the 3rd pitch of Rollin' & Tumblin'. Rated 5.8, definitely MA 5.8+++ in my very humble opinion. This is the pitch Lee is describing as the second pitch of Pooh. Traditionally it isn't but this is a confused section of the cliff. As described by Lee his third pitch of Pooh is actually the third pitch of Orcs. It climbs way better than it looks!

For the record I have seconded the second pitch of Pooh once and led it once. On lead I tried several times to gain the hand crack without success. Concerned with the definite chance of ledge fall I finally reached up, got a cam in the bottom of the hand crack, clipped it long and proceeded to aid up the bastard.

The second pitch of Pooh is the easy, wide crack at the end of the 1st pitch of Fun House that people commonly do as the second pitch of Fun House. It is not Fun House. The real Fun House second pitch, which no one does anymore, is 20 feet to the left along the ledge and past the pine tree from of the base of the Pooh crack. There you move up on the right side of the exposed slab.

Twenty feet to the right of the Pooh second pitch and at the finish of the 1st pitch of Pooh is the 3rd pitch of Rollin' & Tumblin'. A little confusing. Once you finish the first pitch of Pooh you walk left 20 feet on the ledge to the wide crack that is the second pitch of Pooh.

Directly above the finish to the first pitch of Pooh you will find the very thin, boulderly, difficult finger crack off the ledge that is the start to Rollin' & Tumblin's 3rd pitch. I have tried it two ways. One straight up the crack and the other moving up left of the crack and then back right to gain the hand crack. I found each to be as hard as the The Slot(5.10b) at the North End. But I am a big wimp and a klutz. Your mileage may vary.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 22, 2014

i thought my description was pretty clear that the original line of the second pitch is on what we now call funhouse... if that was not clear im glad it is now being discussed since the "new" version could be a dangerous sandbag... again i did my best to make that clear... either way you do it its a very fun climb!

By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Aug 4, 2014

I agree with a few other posters that the second pitch crux is really tough in the grade. The move feels similar to other Cathedral 5.10a/b climbs and is in ledge fall territory. I also didn't notice anything in the description about the tricky finish on P1 but I found it at least as challenging as the chockstone (it does take tons of gear though).

Besides the general sandbaggery, this is a very cool climb. My partner and I both cut our feet and swung on the chockstone move and it's not every day you get to do that on a 5.7!