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Routes in The Magician
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Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Boulder under the house TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cookies on Sunday T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Frustration with the Redhead T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X |
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Liquid Sky T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Magic Dragon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Poof T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Silence of The Clams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Strange Brew T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Under the house TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | H. & E. Laeger |
| Page Views: | 4,640 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A great introduction to the Needles--the airiness, exposure, and runouts typical to the area at an accessible grade. Don't believe the guidebook--3 pitches will not get you to the top.
P1 (5.6): Climb multiple, broken cracks in a shallow, left-facing corner. Belay from a ledge with a fir tree. [Take a few minutes to TR "Frustration with the Redhead" (5.11) directly below the tree.]
P2 (5.7+): Follow a short crack and flakes past a single bolt which is 30 feet out. Continue climbing the moderate face with questionable gear behind loose flakes--spooky. You are likely to encounter an unprotected 5.7/5.8 mantle to gain the belay ledge. Belay from a 1-foot ledge below the start of an arching overhang.
P3 (5.7+): Climb cracks up and left beneath a sweeping, arch (the smaller and higher of two arches on the east face of the Magician). At the far left side, as the overhang diminishes, step boldly up and follow a face and crack to a belay in an alcove.
P4 (easy): Step right until reaching a short, hand-sized crack that leads to the top of the Magician.
P5 (5.8): Climb a short offwidth to reach the Lookout. The 5.8 offwidth protects with a single 4" piece. Alternately, rappel from slings around a constriction on the west face.
P1 (5.6): Climb multiple, broken cracks in a shallow, left-facing corner. Belay from a ledge with a fir tree. [Take a few minutes to TR "Frustration with the Redhead" (5.11) directly below the tree.]
P2 (5.7+): Follow a short crack and flakes past a single bolt which is 30 feet out. Continue climbing the moderate face with questionable gear behind loose flakes--spooky. You are likely to encounter an unprotected 5.7/5.8 mantle to gain the belay ledge. Belay from a 1-foot ledge below the start of an arching overhang.
P3 (5.7+): Climb cracks up and left beneath a sweeping, arch (the smaller and higher of two arches on the east face of the Magician). At the far left side, as the overhang diminishes, step boldly up and follow a face and crack to a belay in an alcove.
P4 (easy): Step right until reaching a short, hand-sized crack that leads to the top of the Magician.
P5 (5.8): Climb a short offwidth to reach the Lookout. The 5.8 offwidth protects with a single 4" piece. Alternately, rappel from slings around a constriction on the west face.
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