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Fun climbing on dark brown patina plates with the odd balance move is what you'll find on this well-hidden route that's worth seeking out for it's enjoyable movement as well as it's peculiar name.
Well protected, and in a sheltered location that makes it ideal for those cold and windy days frequent to Josh. Three stars out of five.
Located in a north-south running corridor between the skirt and the pommel of Saddle Rocks. Walk left from the base of Boom Boom Room/Nuts and Bolts to access the corridor where you'll find this east-facing route, just to the right of the obscure Sullivan from Colorado (5.9 R).
5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")
|By Brandt Allen|
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 14, 2010
A very cool route that is indeed well worth making the effort to get to.
May also be approached from the north end of the corridor, a short way above Unicorner.
Lots of sustained fun moves including a tricky start and a cool undercling move about half way up keep your interest all the way to the anchor.
Hard for 5.9 - Dave Mayville called it 10b!