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 ADVANCED
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
976 T 
Death in the Afternoon T 
Importance of Being Ernest, The T 
Moveable Feast T 
On the Nob T 
Poodle in Shining Armor T 
Poodle Jive T 
Poodle-oids from The Deep T 
Scary Poodles T 
Spoodle T 

Poodle in Shining Armor 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira, and Charles Cole, Nov. 1982
Page Views: 357
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: "Poodle In Shining Armor".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Well to the right of the center of the wall, this route climbs to the top of a tower. It is loose and scary, a route to avoid.


Protection 

standard rack



Photos of Poodle in Shining Armor Slideshow Add Photo
Dave starting the upper section of Poodle in Shining Armor (5.8), JTNP.
Dave starting the upper section of Poodle in Shini...
Cambria on the exposed finish of Poodles in Shining Armor.
Cambria on the exposed finish of Poodles in Shinin...
Comments on Poodle in Shining Armor Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
May 4, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route must have cleaned up over the years - some loose rock exists but there's nothing dangerous, and the exposed finish more than makes up for the lower portion. That said, it's still probably best recommended for those solid at the grade.

To descend: downclimb the short face to the north (climber's right) and then circle around the back to reach the rap anchors atop "The Importance of Being Ernest".

By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Mar 22, 2010

Just climbed this excellent route. The upper exposed buttress is super exciting with good rock. At the start, stay on the steep flakes, not the dirty trough.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Jan 3, 2012

Don't tell anyone, but this route is a lot of fun! Varied climbing over flakes and plates along the periphery of a trough leads to an step out to the left onto a pretty wildly exposed face, a great summit, and a spicy downclimb. Joshua Tree gear; take it for what it's worth.