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(8) New Frontier
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Pony Express T 

Pony Express 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: FFA: Greg Murray. September, 1993.
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: Derrick Peppers on Dec 9, 2011

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So there you are looking at a wall covered in 2" thick moss and you say "Hey, I think I want to climb that." If this sounds like you then this route is definitly for you. The movement on this route is straight forward ( I did this with an old pair of trail runners) and the pro isn't terrible. The route wouldn't be that bad if someone wanted to go through the effort of cleaning all the moss off the route. One more thing to include is that there is a terrible thorn monster midway up the route. He ate both me and my partner. If you see him, please slay the dreadful thing. Fat bolts await the amazing climber directly above the main block.


This route runs up a meandering crack along the right side of the obvious block sticking out from the middle of the wall.


Pro to 2"

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By another Chad
Dec 10, 2011

I'm glad to hear that people are making it down to the New Frontier Cliff!

By berl
From: Seattle
Dec 11, 2011

I also tried this thing in approach shoes a few years back. I remember thinking at the time that it seemed like gear went from about 2" and up, not up to 2". maybe that was all the moss talking.
By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
Dec 13, 2011

Could someone beef up the location info for this climb? Not saying I want to do it, but there's really no point in adding it unless you're gonna explain how to find it. Perhaps Broughton needs to be broken up into its smaller sectors...
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 20, 2015

Very good points, Colin. We enjoy exploring, but the description of the approach needs to be beefed up.
By Derrick Peppers
From: everywhere
Aug 1, 2015

I'd be happy to make the location more accurate. I havent been out there in so long that I can't remember anything about this route. could someone help me remember what this route is.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Aug 1, 2015

This route is the only line that could be considered an ok climb, on a cliff that is long forgotten, dirty and really not worth climbing on... However, if you want to go try it, walk down past Bat Wall, and continue past Jungle Cliff, and a couple min later you will see this little cliff. The OW is easy to spot.
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