Pony Express 

Pony Express epitomizes 5.11 Eldorado climbing in many ways: steep, funky, stemming, gear tinkering, short crux, frustrating secondary crux...a real beauty, and definitely one of the best West Ridge routes of this grade. The first pitch is also one of the best 5.9 leads in the canyon, well-protected, but quite short. Many people just do this lead and rap off. The original free version of the crux corner moves left out of the dihedral onto a steep wall at a tight finger crack; you actually use the arete for a move, then reach a good bucket, but with poor feet. The gear is good but strenuous to place. There is a good anchor atop P2. Watch for loose rock in the shattered maroon band up there. The direct dihedral was first free climbing by Roger Briggs, and involves rather wide and technical stemming at a slightly harder grade, perhaps 5.11d, unless you have been doing your yoga every day. It protects well with small wires and RPs. P1 and P2 can be combined into a single lead, or do Iron Pony to get up to the crux. This section of the West Ridge is a nice hang in the afternoon on those glorious autumn days, and can stay good throughout the winter; by the same token it is a good early morning spot in the summer. Can get crowded, so try to not monopolize the rap anchor.

This is a top shelf line! It is also a bit intimidating. I think I managed a pink tricam near the crux that was a good supplement to the small nuts. You can also get a great sling over the flake you reach for at the crux.

The first pitch protects fairly well and has some beautiful moves on it. There are good rests and nice stances to place gear.

Important note for those who don't like wasps: it appears that some wasps have declared the Pony Express crack on P2 their home. Yesterday, 4.28.02, about 50 wasps were swarming in and out of the crack.

I don't think that it would be too wise to sling the jug as Tom suggests. The jug seemed a bit creaky to me. Even so the feet suck here and its very hard to stop and place pro. There is a fixed nut just below the crux whose quality really can't be judged until you're eye to eye with it... basically, it sucks... you can back it up with a #4 or 5 BD stopper in the pod just above. An awesome climb with a desperately hard crux!

Has anyone done the second pitch recently and are the wasps still there? I would love to hear that they're not.

I attempted to lead the second pitch of this climb today, and it appears that the wasps are back. I didn't see a nest, but there were quite a few wasps flying in and out of the crack (on the face) for its entire length, and more lurking in the initial finger jams.

I ended up backing off, so that stinging wasps wouldn't blow my onsight.

On P1, is it on route to go ~ 4 ft RIGHT of the crack about mid-way for about 10 feet, then join back up with the crack to finish? The crack section through the middle here seems to be more difficult than 9.

Clare, I've done the first pitch both ways -- staying in the crack and going a bit right on the face. Both seem about the same diffficulty to me. If you like crack climbing and being close to your gear, the former might seem easier. If you like face climbing, the latter might suit you better. I don't think one or the other is "off route." To say so means the route is contrived, IMHO.

How can a trad route be 'contrived'? That seems a contradiction of terms. Similarly I don't see how one can be 'off route'. The whole point (for me) about a trad route is you get to choose exactly how you climb the section of rock. The grade is only a guide anyway.

SL hits the nail on the head when he says "frustrating second crux". I have never been able to feel solid on that move. As I remember you have nothing for feet and kinda have to stab at an OK hold. Just desperate!!!!

Just a high quality line. The wasps are lingering in the first little slot of p2.

Here's a suggestion: If coming down after climbing Handcracker Direct and are looking for more action, jump on P1 of PE for a little icing on the cake...set up a top rope and do Iron Horse, and then pull the rope and send Mesca-Line or Dandi-Line for the night cap. Made for a fun afternoon on west ridge!

Onsight Baby! I messed with some gear at the big hold halfway up and after fiddling for a few seconds thought "F*#@ it I have a bucket" and kept climbing.

That's for you John, thanks for the belay!

You better add a can of raid or a fly swatter to your rack, if you want to climb second pitch. There were about dozen hornets sunning themselves around the crux crack this morning.

There are currently no wasps and an oldish looking (though solid) fixed stopped at the crux of Pony Express. I don't know about anyone else, but I would recommend against Tom F's suggestion of slinging the jug flake just after the crux. The thing is pretty creaky and you get great gear after just one more move, not worth risking sending a sizable missile down at your belayer or anyone below IMO. -BA

Climbed it a few weeks ago, no wasps present.

A few wasps today, but nothing bad. I think it's good to go for the fall season!

I climbed P2 around noon yesterday. I encountered 2 or 3 wasps when I climbed it, but while I was lowered I noticed 8-10 near a crucial finger lock. The guy who got on it earlier said that he saw very few wasps. This leads me to believe that they're more active later in the day, so get on this thing early!

Watched a gentleman bail on the beautiful 2nd pitch last Friday due to a swarm of wasps! Be aware!

Climbed this today and no wasps. Pretty cool line!