Pony Express 

Fun handcrack. Would be a great warmup but it's on the shady side of the Loaf in the am. Brr!!

It's worth toproping the .11b to the left from the bolted anchor if you're so inclined. thin edging fun.

If just climbing the first pitch, a singe rope is sufficient to get you back down. Somewhere around 80' or so.

More like 5.8 (Supertopo rating)

Crux consists of a few 5.8 lieback moves. Great gear.

I used the anchor out to the right on the face. To spice up the route, bypass the bulge and go out and right directly onto the face (direct to anchor), no gear for ~8 ft or so and maybe a 5.9 move or two.

I didn't bother to climb the second pitch since I hadn't read or heard anything good about it, but this one pitch alone is utterly fantastic and a must-do! Not a single bad move on the entire thing.

The first pitch is classic.

The second pitch isn't classic by any means, but it is still fun. Your experience probably won't be tainted unless your psyche crumbles at the thought of touching 2 star terrain. A #4 gnu skewl camalot is recommended.

First pitch starts out at 5.7, has a distinct 5.8 section (perfect for a #1 C4) and finishes with 5.6 liebacking. The second pitch is 5.9.

Pitch 2 has a committing 5.9 lieback section about 10' long protected by big #4 and #5 BD cams, followed by a rest on a ledge and then another 15' or so of 5.7 crack. Don't underestimate the "5.9 move to 3rd class" described in the SuperTopo guide.

Pitch 2 was an awesome awkward wide crack,a #3 fits just off the deck and a #4 BD fits perfectly about halfway up. Don't let all the haters deter you, it was a fun grovel past the bulge with some fists and chicken winging tossed in the mix.

onsight freesolo