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Polymastia 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jerry, Sigrid, Lynnea, and William Anderson Feb 1994
Season: Winter - All day sun, lower elevation
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: tallmark515 on Jan 11, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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I think this might have been my first 10d in the V...
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Description 

Shares start with The Tube, but moves out to a bolt on the face to the right after 20'. Make a few moves (crux) between the first and second bolts (stay low), then continue around the arete to the third bolt (5.10), then to the top (5.8-.9) which shares an anchor with The Tube.


Location 

Sam start as The Tube.


Protection 

1 each - BD .4-1
10 quickdraws plus a few slings to extend cams.



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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 18, 2010

Excellent climb. Don't underestimate the lower crack - it's pretty slick. The crux is tough (at least it was for me), but you are basically on toprope for it. You could probably pull through it with the aid of your quickdraw if need be. After the traverse, the climbing mellows to relatively well-protected 5.9 slabbing.

By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Oct 11, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Being a relative crack newb, the lower section of this was the crux for me. Ignore the supertopo gear recommendation and trust what you see. I took a couple of each in .5-1 and was glad to have them. At the shared anchor with The Tube there is a wasps nest so watch out! They get frisky on warmer days.

By Osprey
From: ...
Dec 21, 2011

FA - Jerry, Sigrid, Lynnea, and William Anderson Feb 1994.

By Phil Esra
Apr 15, 2013

I thought this was really fun--surprised it doesn't get more stars on MP. Tricky crux!