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Broken Tooth
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Polygrip 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Carruthers, Steve Hong , Karin Budding and Tom Carruthers
Page Views: 2,216
Submitted By: Max Schon on Jan 1, 2002
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perfect .4 lay-backing. Save two bd .5s and .75s ...

Description 

Slightly hard than Rock Lobster, but way better. The Ruckman's guidebook says something about taping the right side of your harness for the finger layback section, but that's an exaggeration. The pitch begins with some tight hands and good feet that goes to a big ledge at the beginning of the killer finger layback section. Layback about forty feet of perfect fingers (yellow aliens), pull a thin hands bulge (crux), and finish with some thin hands.


Protection 

Bomber fingers, like yellow aliens, and some thin hands, like green and red camalots.



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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 1, 2003

Good route description Max, but where is the climb in reference to the trail. We wouldn't want someone jumping on a 5.12+ because they thought it was Polygrip...

By Max Schon
Nov 11, 2003

Can miss it. There are three splitter crack climbs right next to each other when you get to the base of the wall. From left to right it goes: Rock Lobster, Inflictor, Polygrip.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 29, 2004

Getting over the roof is on #1.5 friends, so its more of ringlocks than thin hands. If you can't get thin hands at the roof, the 11+ rating in the Marco guide is more accurate. Considerably harder than Rock Lobster.

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

cool route. mellow start. pumpy mid section, and almost desperate finish.

By Bob Rotert
Dec 8, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Slightly, much harder than Rock Lobster. Awesome route!!

By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Sustained is the word. Definitely baggy fingers, rings over the bulge. It protects with purple camalot- I'd like to know who's getting thin hands there. Much much harder than RL- once the layback starts there's no rest until you punch the rings above the bulge to the handjam. And you're still not done....

By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 28, 2011

Hardest move here may only be slightly harder than the crux of Rock Lobster, but Polygrip is extremely sustained, which RL is definitely not.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 27, 2014

Length is ~115'. A 60m rope did not reach. A 70m would.

By Tom Carruthers
Feb 17, 2014

Steve Carruthers did the first ascent of this route with Steve Hong , Karin Budding and myself . It was a good weekend when we discovered the Broken Tooth Wall .