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 ADVANCED
South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Wildcat S 

Polly's Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Polly Hessing, 1971 ?
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,288
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Jammin' and stemmin' gets it done.

Description 

A sweet dihedral/open book crack route. Nice fingers and hands with enjoyable stemming all the way. Start up less than desirable rock and pull a tough bulge/roof to get established in the corner. Stem and jam your way up.

Location 

The obvious corner right of Way Beyond Zebra. Shown as route number 16 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection 

Small to large nuts and cams. Big stuff at top just before the bolt/hanger anchors. You'll need long slings for the anchor bolts and collect them from the top on your way out. Can be set as TR from the top.


Photos of Polly's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Cody getting established in the crack. Fingers?? D...
Cody getting established in the crack. Fingers?? D...

Comments on Polly's Crack Add Comment
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Take a #4 (or #5?) or be prepared for a decent run out to the anchor bolts. Although the terrain is pretty easy, I wouldn't want to take a big fall in a corner that tight.

Sustained 5.8 from the word go, with fun stemming and jamming and great pro. One of the best cracks at the grade in White Rock, IMO.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

And if you're not comfortable with that bit of runout, another option many folks take is move left and clip the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra. It'll make cleaning the gear on your way back down a little more difficult though.
By Wa3lt
Sep 23, 2009

Best 5.8 in White Rock, IMO.
By henrik
Jun 28, 2010

Found some slings at the anchors on the climb last thursday (June 24th). We meant to leave them there but not everyone knew this so they ended up in one of our bags anyway. If you know who left them there send me an email and I'll get them back to you.
internet@henriksandin.se

Cheers
HS
By Jeffrey Hyman
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Oct 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The anchor for this route is only bolts and hangers, there are no chains or rap rings. If you lead the route, then you have to leave gear (long slings) and gather them on the way out.