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Routes in The Other Side
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Chicken on the Wing at the Gates of Evening, Oh! How Glorious is Thy Flight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Funky Chicken S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Other Side, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pollo Loco S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pollo Seca S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spring Chicken S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Wishbone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Josh Smith & Rick Bradshaw 2006 |
| Page Views: | 634 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Rick Bradshaw on May 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
I think we meant Pollo Picante because while the route is high and dry (seca) it is also kind of spicy. Start left of the bolt line on some small boulders to gain access to the bad ledge that forms the transition from sandstone to basault. Traverse right on the ledge (10 feet up!) to reach the first bolt (it is easier than it looks), then straight up from there. Fun movement with tons of exposure.
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