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Pollen Junkies
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Second Tier
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Bee's Knees T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Handcrack Boulder T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pollen Junkies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spider Biter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Straight Shot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | James Debella/Eric Bretthauer |
| Page Views: | 1,252 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Rockbanned brett on Oct 23, 2012 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
This route is marked by an 8 foot high right leaning ramp. The top of the ramp gives way to a splitter hand crack with a pine tree growing out of it 30 feet up. Jam the crack past the tree until the crack widens (3.5-4). Exit the crack to gain a clean slab with a finger crack at its top. Climb the finger crack to the slung pine tree. NOTE:**This line is an absolute rope stretcher. It can be safely rappelled with a 60 meter rope but one should NOT be lowered while the gear is still in place as this substantially decreases the available length of the rope. The leader WILL lower off the end! A top belay is advised.
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